Type: Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, Joe Desimone. Sept., 2003
Page Views: 6,830 total · 33/month
Shared By: Mark Tarrant on Sep 26, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

WOW starts about 50' downhill from EOA. It's described as 4 pitches with rap stations after each pitch (and a rap station/belay halfway up the long first pitch), so you can bail out at any point. The striking 400' sport route has terrific position and lavish protection on mostly excellent alpine granite. It takes aim at the obvious main objective: a big, steep plate that is every bit as good as it looks.

Pitch 1: 5.9-, 18 bolts, 160'. 10 bolts lead up shallow corners to the first rap station at 80'. Another 8 bolts continue up 50' (.6) and then straight right to a massive ledge below a vertical wall. (Long slings useful).

P2: 5.12a/b, 6 bolts, 50'. Climb up and left on a smooth plate (sequential). Move straight left at the 4th bolt to a nifty arete then up to a good ledge below an awesome plaque.

P3: 5.12a, 12 bolts, 90' (two long slings useful). This stunning pitch climbs up the center of the overhanging plate on nearly perfect rock. Square-cut edges, side-pulls, and deadpoints take you 50' to a rest. Pull over an arete onto a ramp. A final .10+ move to a hidden jug leads to an anchor at the top of the plate. This anchor is NOT meant to be the belay anchor--it's for TR'ing or lowering off if necessary. The belay is over the top of the plate on a big sloping ledge. This pitch is mostly an endurance test--not technically 5.12, but the continuous 5.11 sequences sure make it feel like .12a especially at this elevation.

P4: 5.11c/d, 11 bolts, 90'. Move 20' up the ledge to a chain anchor (optional). Climb a vertical wall with hard moves to a jug above bolt 2. This section has caused some confusion -- clip bolt 2 and stay right (don't aim for bolt 3), and then dyno straight up with the right hand to a good jug, then move left to bolt 3. Squirm out the left side of a huge roof to a ledge below a steep wall. A reachy section (.10+ if you can reach the starting holds) gains the final, wonderfully exposed arete (.10+). A 2-bolt anchor lies 8' over the flat summit.

P2 variation: 5.11a, 60', 6 bolts. Before traversing right on P1 (about 120') find an anchor below and left of an arete. Two hard moves off the belay lead to nice 5.8 climbing on the arete (shares the last two bolts of the regular second pitch). This variation avoids the technical crux and is very worthwhile if your primary goal is to arrive at the big plate with a little extra muscle.

Descent: Walk off the obvious big ramp to the north.

Protection

About 20 quickdraws (including 3 or 4 long slings). A 60m rope is necessary to rap/retreat.

Photos