Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk. USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info:
fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with closures are crucial to the eagles’ success.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or
fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See -
fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at
fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Longmont, CO
The moves just getting to the anchor felt rather awkward to me. Oct 11, 2003
Fort Collins, CO
As for the last move, clipping the anchors is strenuous, but are you supposed to get established above the roof, or do you just yard on the draws (as I did)? I tried several times to pull over the lip to get established on the holds by the anchors, but couldn't get it. I was in a bit of a panic, because it was getting dark, so maybe I missed something.
If you're supposed to pull over the lip rather than yard on the draws, this might be real 10c or so. On the other hand, if you're just supposed to clip the anchors and yard on the draws, then this is silly. Just put the anchors under the roof. Oct 29, 2003
Choctaw, OK
Fort Collins, CO
I thought I was clear. I clipped the anchor bolts clean, and then pulled on those draws to get high enough to thread the rings. Clipping the anchor bolts was about 5.9. Below that the climbing felt like 5.8. Often, people grab the anchor draws, because there is no good stance at the anchors, and that's my question on Mission to Mars: Is the climb over when you clip the anchor, or are you supposed to continue and actually pull over the hang? If your chest is at, say, the level of the anchor, there would be no decent stance.
Ivan Oct 30, 2003
You need not ask anyone about what constitutes the end of a climb, success or failure but yourself. In the big picture, What The *#@% Does It Matter (WTFDIM)? The beauty (and sometimes scourge) of this game is that we all play by our own rules, more or less. (The exception is when our rules change the rules or experience for others, e.g. bolting, chipping, etc. I won't tread any further on this slippery slope.) Anarchy is the cornerstone of climbing. Seeking affirmation from others is anathema to the game and its' primary rule (anarchy), thus depriving yourself of an experience that you define on your terms. Oct 30, 2003
Fort Collins, CO
Around Boulder, CO
You can pull up over the roof, but it is difficult- clip the anchor for that move. Oct 3, 2007
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
I wouldn't be too quick to pass judgment on the route until you've led it yourself without clipping the bolts.
Do you think the two-bolt anchor at the top should also be removed, to make this a "pure" trad route? How many ascents do you think the route would see if if it had no bolts at all? My guess: not many. The move turning the roof is pretty hard, and poorly protected without the last lead protection bolt or the bolt anchor to clip. Oct 4, 2007
Boulder, CO
I would say the last move to get to the first bolt was the hardest move before the roof, and was comparable to 5.9s in the area (similar to the crux move on Luminosity for difficulty)
Once you get to the bolts the climbing eases off until you clip the anchor. Once you clip the anchor, pulling the roof seemed harder than any move on the neighboring 5.10bs to the left (Tower of Power or Twilight Zone) Obviously, you are already into the anchors so you can just pull yourself up... but there are a couple of decent foot holds to establish yourself on and once you pull the roof, there are good handholds above the anchor, so pulling on the anchors isn't necessary. Jun 20, 2009
Boulder, CO
Boulder, Colorado
I'm easily amused though, so your milage may vary. Nov 8, 2012
Denver
Loveland
Denvah