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Routes in Southern Dinosaur Egg

Coming Attractions S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Girls Day Out aka Right Side T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Hatch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Side TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sneak Preview S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: ? B. Parker, N. Fehrenbacher, LP, 10/03
Page Views: 42 total, 0/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 6, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a short, more-challenging TR on the W side of Southern Dinosaur Egg. It is perhaps 45 ft. If you're there, it may be worth the effort. It can be TR'ed from the same anchor as for Left Side & Coming Attractions. It lies below Sneak Preview. The painful crimps and lichen suggest little, if any, prior traffic.

To approach, consider the Mesa Trail to the Bear Canyon trail. Bushwhacking up the Bear Canyon drainage past Bear Creek Spire is slightly tedious and a fair amount of poison ivy lives down there. Go to Stonehenge (with Thought Control) and angle back E toward Southern Dinosaur Egg.

Begin a few feet down and R of Coming Attractions. Lieback/shuffle feet up to a bucket. Stem R. Work up along a R-angling overlap/crack with power/balance moves to a slab rest above. Move slightly L, use a knob on an arête for your L foot and reach high to a jug. 1.48 stars. You can also finish as for the top of Coming Attractions. To descend, you can downclimb 3rd or 4th class rock to the L.

After doing Coming Attractions, rated 5.10d in Rossiter's Flatirons guide, this seemed a bit more challenging, hence the 5.11a rating. You be the judge. Yes, it could be led but it would be s/vs.

Protection

You may be able to put in a finger size cam to start, then to loop a horn, then possibly a off-fingers sized cam, then, you can cross over to the 3rd bolt of Coming Attractions, then fire for the top.

Photos

Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.11a
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
  5.11a
Good TR, but leading it would get an s rating, IMHO Apr 19, 2004