PRINT: Rock Climb Future Primitive, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Future Primitive

5.6, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches,

Avg: 0.8 from 6 votes
FA: R. Rossiter, solo
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Shirt Tail Peak

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closure Lifted Details

As of 7/16/17:

Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!

Previously:

Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park

Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.

Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.

Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!

Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.

Description

A fun route up the Giucco Piano Arete that ends up on the top of ShirtTail Peak.

P1 -- To start, scramble up and right past the vertical lower section of the arete (Rossiter). You'll start at a big tree in an alcove, and climb about 40 feet up along a discontinuous L facing dihedral to another large tree with slings.Past the tree it's up a gully, and at 100 head L into a rotten band.

P2 -- Climb through 2 bushes (amusing if you're in the right mood), and head L at the first available crack. A 3.5 cam fits nicely here, and now the climbing is terrific: exposed airy moves heading straight to the arete. A bit loose. Excellent pro on the far side of the arete for anchors.100 feet.

P3 -- Up the arete, 130 feet, to a false summit. Beautiful.

P4 -- Climb the SE arete to the summit. 100 feet.

If the first pitch and a half weren't so bushy, I'd say 2 stars. Still, this is a fun, well-protected moderate climb.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3.5 Camalot, med to big stoppers. I found small tricams helpful.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Unknown climber cruising the arete on P3.

Aaron Ramras free solo on Future Primitive.

Larry leading up the second pitch

Mollie having fun at the end of the second pitch

Jason Shatek moving up the arete on the third pitch

Jason Shatek moving up the very airy arete on the third pitch

Larry Pedigo happy to be on the summit of ShirtTail

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward

Did this route last Saturday. This route is very mountaineerish. Lots of bushes and loose rock everywhere. The Eldo guide book made by Falcon we had was worthless, not even a line to indicate where the route went. Thus, for P1 we went straight up the gully 20 feet past the red rotten ledge to a large tree with several slings on it (150 feet). Avoid the urge to go up the red rotten ledge to the arete. The arete looked overhanging there and, I am guessing, 5.10ish. For P2 we stayed about 30 feet below the arete and moved through several bushes one of which was thorny. We followed a large crack system with about a million variations. Belay was set up at a moderate sized tree about 20 feet below the arete on the south side (~150 feet). The last pitch was very easy probably all [fourth] class climbing. For P3 we came up to the arete right where you cross to the other side of a large gully and up to the top of Shirt Tail another 150 foot pitch. The trail to this route is very poor with loose rock everywhere. There was lots of [vegetation] and loose rock everywhere but the pro placements were pretty good. Also the rappel station 100-150 ft to the north of the summit was pretty good, a little forth class downclimbing (20 feet) and it's a breeze after that, 3 quick 60-70 foot repels and we could walk off. Count on taking some time to figure out where the route goes! A good climb with a great view, but I wouldn't give it any stars. -Jason Jul 12, 2004

carla

Did this route last Mo. A so-so route, with lots of loose rock, and vegetation. But gets you to a great summit! For pitch one, we stayed in the gully and belayed at a tree (~ 150 ft), and pitch 2 brought us all the way up to the ridge, with a right traverse into a gully at the end. Pitch 3, on the ridge/face was maybe 5.5, and pitch 4 mostly a scramble. Good climbing in spots on the face, but not a stellar route in my judgement. Not recommended for novice leaders because of the difficulties of dealing with the tons of loose rock and challenging route finding. Jun 29, 2006