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Question of Balance
5.11,
Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3.6 from 44
votes
FA: unknown
Colorado
> Gunnison
> Taylor Canyon
> First Buttress
> Left Hand
Description
Question of Balance is a very appropriately named route that goes up the obvious rightward angling crack system on the beautiful smooth slab to the right of the prominent Air Conditioner corner. This is a fantastic climb offering steep (thankfully just under vertical) relentlessly thin crack and face climbing from start to finish. Question of Balance is most often top roped but it's real greatness is as a test piece trad lead. The route gets harder each move that you work up. The gear while sometimes needing to be worked is good all the way up to the runout crux moves which are safe but your feet will be above your last gear while you are pulling the last hardest moves. There are two variations to the crux final moves The left variation is slightly easier but both will keep you on your toes. The climb ends at a narrow ledge with chains that can be backed up with trad gear if desired.
Protection
For the most part small to mid sized wired nuts, TCUs, and RPs. Chains on the ledge at top are accessible by tricky 3rd class to set up top rope.
[Hide Photo] A view from the side of Q of B taken by Greg Phillips
[Hide Photo] "A Question of Balance" by The Moody Blues.
[Hide Photo] Two views of Question of Balance taken by Greg Phillips in the Eighties.
Edina, MN
cheers, aaron Mar 11, 2004
Boulder, CO
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
CB, CO & ATX
Colorado
Gunnison