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Dead Again

5.10b/c, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 2.4 from 247 votes
FA: Richard Rossiter and Dianne Barrow, 2001
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Avalon > Second Tier > Wall of the Dead
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Start in the middle of The Wall of the Dead. Climb up the face to an overlap, move left, and continue up to the anchors. It has some committing moves through the crux section passing the overlap.

I found this to be a fun, interesting, well bolted climb that I would certainly do again.

Protection

6 bolts to anchors with rings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dead Again.  The committing crux is from the third to the fifth bolts.
[Hide Photo] Dead Again. The committing crux is from the third to the fifth bolts.
Another smooth onsight for the legendary Mico Alejandro.
[Hide Photo] Another smooth onsight for the legendary Mico Alejandro.
Is this another instance of Mico Alejandro pulling on gear? I'll let you be the judge.
[Hide Photo] Is this another instance of Mico Alejandro pulling on gear? I'll let you be the judge.
Climber on the sustained crux section of Dead Again.
[Hide Photo] Climber on the sustained crux section of Dead Again.
Mike Amato contemplates the committing crux moves on Dead Again.  Marga Powell is belaying.
[Hide Photo] Mike Amato contemplates the committing crux moves on Dead Again. Marga Powell is belaying.
Ivan Rezucha keeps his unbroken streak alive in a 35-degree snowstorm on Nov. 2.
[Hide Photo] Ivan Rezucha keeps his unbroken streak alive in a 35-degree snowstorm on Nov. 2.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
[Hide Comment] A fun route with strenuous laybacks and precise footwork needed through the start. I thought it was as hard as Tomb, and like that route, had good climbing right to the (too short!) end. Jul 22, 2002
Bruce Pech
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Dead Again is the next bolted line left of Dead Can Dance. Although Rossiter rates it .10d, it's not as hard as the other .10d's and .10c's at Avalon, but harder than Slayer -- .10b -- on the First Tier. How 'bout .10b/c? Jun 3, 2004
[Hide Comment] I felt this route is easily .10c and probably .10d. I've done many other 10cs and 10ds at Avalon, and I felt it was right on par with those routes. It felt much more difficult than Marquis de Sade on the other side of the crag, which is 10c. It might have been more difficult for me because I'm only 5'4''. Either way, I felt it was a good route. Jul 11, 2005
Darren O'Connor
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] At 5.10 and under, this is the funnest route I've done at this area. Safe bolting makes it enjoyable for those challenged at the grade. .10a seems a little low. Rossiter's .10d rating was almost enough to scare me off--don't let it stop you! Jul 14, 2005
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] The crux move up in the middle felt a bit harder than anything on its neighbor Isle of the Dead. Fun moves moving out and up from the undercling to the flake. Aug 18, 2005
Kyle Turner
Brighton, CO
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] I'd give the *crux* of this route a 10c rating when compared to other routes in the canyon. The top and bottom of the route seemed easier... all in all this a great route with solid moves on positive holds. Good route for the aspiring 10+ leader.

-KT Sep 26, 2006
dr.natalie
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Good warmup. Slabby crux. Smear feet. May 27, 2008
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This climb currently has a couple spinner bolts. Jul 12, 2009
Hiro Protagonist
Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Harder than Isle of the Dead next door, whether they are 10abc, I dunno. If your limit is in the 10-range, climb Isle of the Dead first, then if you want more with a more difficult crux, climb this.

Has a fun hand crack half way up, always fun to put those crack skills to use... I'd definitely climb it again next time I'm in the area. Apr 29, 2012
drdeleo
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] One of the anchors is missing the anchor hanger and nut. The bolt appears to be ok. I found the nut on the ground and picked it up before noticing the anchor hanger was missing. Would be nice if someone could replace it. The anchor on the left of this climb also has a loose nut. I hand tightened it, but it needs tightening with a wrench. Jun 2, 2013
[Hide Comment] Today, Ron Olsen and I replaced the Fixe ring hanger missing from one of the anchor bolts. Double thanks to Ron for supplying the hardware. Sep 2, 2013
[Hide Comment] The missing Fixe ring hanger at the anchor is actually on the route just right of Isle of the Dead called "Dead Again." Ron Olsen and I replaced the missing Fixe ring hanger on "Dead Again". I also tightened down the two anchor bolts on this route. Sep 2, 2013
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route today, SO MUCH FUN. There's never a point where you are up shit creek on this route, it's such a blast. I think one bolt had some movement. I would totally give this a 10c simply because of some fancy footwork and knowledge of undercling/flake climbing at the cruxy parts. Jun 26, 2014
[Hide Comment] Very fun climb on great rock with some good underclings and sidepulls. Steady footwork on slopey stone will get you through the crux. Well-protected. Nov 29, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] We found the 3rd and 4th clips were stretchy and hard to make. Perhaps we were missing some key footholds. Sep 6, 2017