PRINT: Rock Climb Jolly Jugular, South Platte

Jolly Jugular

5.6, Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.6 from 83 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > S Platte > Elevenmile Canyon > Pine Cone Dome

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st, 2016-2021 Details

For 2022: per Daniel Bryant: they did extend the order, but what I found was that the closed area does not encompass any of the common climbing areas within Elevenmile Canyon.

From Daniel H Bryant: the 2022 Elevenmile Canyon closures that were extended but do not include climbing areas.

Seasonal Closures in effect January 1-July 31st, 2016-2021.
For details visit:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Maps:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

Contact phone number: (719) 553-1400.

Description

Lance, Bill Parmenter, Robbie Mitchell. Certainly climbed before- located in and just right of dark, deep crack by dihedral far left of Pine Away, right of Armas Daj, and barely to right of 5.10 bolted line on face before it bends to a dihedral corner.

P1. Climb on the face (or mix with crack moves, some vegetation though) just right of the deep crack up marvelous flakes and jugs 100+ feet to sculpted and rounded intersection of bouldered features under a small roof. Nestled in this "ledge" are slightly flared channels/troughs that offer skilled placement opportunities using a combo of several larger nuts, cams, or Tri-cams.

P2. The final pitch is 40-50 foot left and upward slanted traverse with great lieback up to the same pine tree that sits atop Armas Daj. The tree has a huge rap ring if you have two 60m ropes. Our party chose the 4th class scramble up and to right (10 foot ascent on traverse behind a horn) to summit and do the walk-off. The route on whole is well-protected, but not as many easy placements as Staircase. However, runners can enhance as pro on the many flakes present. A generous length cordellete is recommended for the pro you'll need at the belay station. Steeper than most 5.5's, and thin enough on feet, occasionally, to justify the 5.6. For hands, it is a jug fest! We'll be happy to rename for the FA party if claimed, but we haven't seen this route in beta. In photo 230, Jolly Jugular is just 5-6 feet left of the man on rappel. Enjoy! We all rate it 3 stars!

Protection

A conservative trad rack is fine, and bring some runners for natural flakes. Larger cams, tri-cams and/or large stoppers for belay station with cordellette are recommended. There are no existing bolts or anchors. There is a pine tree at the top; however, it's fine!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jolly Jugular w/ 5.7 finish

Various finishes heading up left

Dark dihedral in center of photo marks route. Straight up to features intersecting at "ledge" under roof, aim for tree up and left. Voila!

First pitch face work

Just belay belay area for traverse up.

untitled

The last pitch when you traverse left. It's super easy, almost 4th Class. Placed one piece. Once you get to the big tree, look right. There will be a two bolt anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Betty Barnett

This climb is a lot of fun!!! It is a great one for fairly new climbers. It is the first trad climb I did as a second and I am now hooked on trad climbs. I had been climbing only a few times before trying this this past summer. There were two spots, that at 5'2", were challenging. The taller people had no problems with them. For beginners it's a chance to practice many different climbing techniques. I highly recommend this climb for anyone just wanting to do a fun climb. Dec 17, 2003

Buff Johnson

5.6

Fun jugfest dihedral. The .7 finish variant was fun too. Rope drag to the tree is a bitch - climbed this 4-5 times, can't get rid of the damned drag. I used 60M to get to the tree - probably the cause of the drag problem is going for the tree, but it's such a good anchor.

This climb is less intimidating than the flakey Armaj Das is for a new trad leader. Jan 19, 2006

shad O'Neel

This has been very well bolted. I guess it's safe now. Jun 10, 2006

Buff Johnson

5.6

Are you f'n kidding me? A completely protectable 5.6?? I reckon someone else felt the same, I hear it's been cleaned.

I hope other good natural lines in the canyon don't feel the same pain. Jun 12, 2006

Larry M Shaw

Climbed this one today, an excellent first lead. It felt easier than the Staircase. Pro was fine and could be stitched up if needed. Aug 12, 2006

Lance Bischoff
Great Falls, MT

5.6

Thanks, Bob, for the update. Geezamaneeza folks! A moderate, even non-expensive rack, can protect this route. In fact, it is an excellent route to practice placing pro - cams, chocks, nuts, tri-cams, runners - you name it. So, thank you to the bolt remover, whoever you are...there is no need to bolt up a route with generous placement opportunities. I spotted this route specifically as a TRAD project...it is, and should remain that way. Thanks again, enjoy! Apr 23, 2007

Nate Oakes

Agreed that this route is easy to place all kinds of pro, we even slinged a few horns on the way up. Bolts would have been ridiculous, thanks to whoever removed them. Great for a mellow climb, and a good first lead. I'd give it three stars if it weren't for the vegetation. Aug 27, 2007

Rick2009

So, it is a good thing that someone tore down bolts and damaged the rock even more then the person that put the route up? That is REALLY nice! So, thank the bolt remover when they close the area to climbing.

You people don't think! Rock is rock and climbing is climbing. NOBODY OWNS routes reguardless of how long they have been climbing or with who. Jun 30, 2010

Buff Johnson

5.6

And beer is beer; but it's better when shared with friends. Jun 30, 2010

Brandon Bell
Colorado Springs, CO

5.5

Shared the second pitch belay with two other parties, so the new anchors were much appreciated, if only to save that poor tree the wear and tear. Sewed it up and could probably go all passive, if you wanted. Jun 20, 2016

Jay Eggleston
Denver

You can easily do this as one pitch. There is not much rope drag if you place gear well spaced out. Jul 16, 2016

Nicholas B

Great climb - definitely lives up to its name! You can rap back to the bottom with two rappels (both from bolted anchors). The first set of bolted anchors is behind the tree at the top of the route, and the second set of anchors is on a large ledge straight down. We used a 70m rope, and there was a good amount left over for both raps (I bet you could make it with a 60m). Aug 28, 2019

Michelle Hegmon

5.6 PG13

This and Armaj Das are a hoot if you are an old style trad climber. Solid rock, fun moves, and great holds. However, if you are used to closely spaced bolts, beware that this has longish sections with few or no opportunities for placements. The first part, up the dihedral, is fairly easy to protect - place in the crack, climb mostly the face - but the second part, once you start angling left towards the tree, has longish sections with no opportunities for placements. Oct 5, 2021

Tim K
Denver, CO

5.6

The lower crack eats up pro! Lots of fun. If I were to do it again, I would probably skip the climb above the crack that’s visible from the ground and just shuffle over to the sport anchors for Punks and Old Men. I also placed a 5 in the upper section.

I used a 70m rope and made it all the way to the bolted anchors at the tree shared with Armaj Das in one pitch. You can rap from this tree straight down to the anchors of Kashmir/She’s a Moaner. A 60m would reach those anchors as well, then you can rap to the ground. A 70m will not reach the ground for a rap from the upper tree. Oct 11, 2021