Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cedar Park Slab

Dags in Beanland T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slab Ants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Whetstone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bernard & Sally Gillett '93
Page Views: 1,761 total · 10/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Aug 17, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Whetstone follows most of the route 'Dags in Beanland', so check that for beta. It only differs in the second pitch.

P2) Start the same as Dags in Beanland's second pitch, but traverse right with crack systems to the large left-facing dihedral. Also, a traverse could be made up higher, after clipping the first 3 bolts, then diagonaling to the roof, and hand traversing the underclings to the dihedral. Pull through the tricky roof, then head up easy cracks to another hand traverse left to the bolted anchors for Dags.

This variation of Dags is very good, and it is probably the only option after a heavy day of rain. We chose it because the water streak that Dags climbs was soaked.

Protection

Standard rack. A few bolts here and there.

Photos

Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
I wouldn't recomend rapping off. I've got my rope stuck a couple of times, there's a lot of small cracks perfect for hangups. I feel that the rap is much better on the Dag's side. Oct 31, 2008
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Awesome climb had somewhat a night ascent with Farhnum. This would be great to top out on the Fourth of July. Me and Cale on the last pitch went for the head wall. Instead of cutting right into 5.6 territory, head right for the middle of the wall, placed some good pro (#1 C4, and a bomber nut) and made the overhanging wall, I'd give it a hard 10 move for sure, but awesome jugs on top. We loved it. Oct 31, 2008
Joel Larner
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
Joel Larner   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7
A fun route. I found this one to be about the same grade as Dags. Instead of climbing pitch 1 of Dags, we went up pitch 1 of Crack Slabbeth direct to the two-bolt anchor. A bit runout, but goes just fine. The roof moves are different than those on Dags, so could be easier or harder dependant on how tall the climber is and what types of moves you like.

We climbed to the top set of bolt anchors, then rap'd back down instead of doing the walk off. There is a sling and rings on the tree halfway between anchors two and three. We were able to use a single rope to make 4 raps back down to the lowest 2 bolt anchor: 1) top 2-bolt to slung tree; 2) slung tree to middle 2-bolt; 3) 2-bolt to 2-bolt on Dags; 4) 2-bolt on Dags to lower 2-bolt on Whetstone. The slab is pretty low angle up top with plenty of things to catch a knot, so we felt this was better than making longer raps with 2 ropes and risking catching a knot. The 5th rap from the lowest 2-bolt anchor requires 2 ropes. It is actually 180' to the very bottom, although you could do it with two 50M if you go off to the side a little and walk off from there. Pretty obvious once you see it. May 20, 2005
Whetstone actually differs from Dags in Beanland most of the way. My wife and I went to climb Dags, but (like Peter) found the crux bolt ladder on pitch two soaked, so we went out right, and came back to the Dags belay after a half pitch. I was never able to locate the bolt on the following lead of Dags, so I just kept linking natural features until we reached the top of the rock. Later, I revisited the Rock and Ice topo of the route, and came to the conclusion that we stayed to the right of Dags from halfway through the 2nd pitch all the way up. Four years later, Rick Thompson and friends climbed Crack Slabbeth, which starts and stays right of Dags for the entire way, and shares ground with Whetstone. Sep 2, 2003