Eye Sockets Look Down on Chess Board Metals
Avg: 1.8 from 12 votes
Routes in The Sentinel
|Crooked Cross T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Eye Sockets Look Down on Chess Board Metals T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Fogline S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|I Spy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Koon's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Roundabout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Southern Cross T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Spy Story T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft|
|Page Views:||774 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Aug 15, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe route climbs the second arete left of Fogline, just left of the Spy Story corner. Begin about 40' left of Fogline below the arete. The first bolt can be seen about 45' up in a grungy area of rock.
Scramble up 25' to a small grassy ledge. Climb up 10' on grungy rock and place pro (red Alien) to protect a 5.6 move. Clip the first bolt shortly above. Continue up past another bolt in the grungy rock, then move up to the clean arete. Climb the arete, with airy 5.9 to 5.10a moves, to the final steep headwall.
The climbing gets harder here. At the 11th bolt, either continue straight up on small holds, or traverse right to a flared hand crack. I climbed the face right of the crack, using the crack and a small pine tree to the right. The crack variation is about 10c; the line following the bolts looked harder. The anchor bolts are a short distance above.
The leader should belay here and bring up the second, since it would take two ropes to lower.
Descent: With a single 60m rope, rappel 100' to a small ledge, from which you can downclimb (3rd class) 30' to the ground. With two ropes, rappel 130' directly to the ground.
The initial section of this climb is grungy, but the moves are good. The arete is clean and airy. The final headwall could use more cleaning. One star for good moves and good position, but there are some sections of uncleaned rock.