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Routes in The Sentinel

Crooked Cross T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eye Sockets Look Down on Chess Board Metals T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fogline S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Spy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Koon's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roundabout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Southern Cross T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spy Story T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Alvino Pon
Page Views: 774 total, 4/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 15, 2003 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

The route climbs the second arete left of Fogline, just left of the Spy Story corner. Begin about 40' left of Fogline below the arete. The first bolt can be seen about 45' up in a grungy area of rock.

Scramble up 25' to a small grassy ledge. Climb up 10' on grungy rock and place pro (red Alien) to protect a 5.6 move. Clip the first bolt shortly above. Continue up past another bolt in the grungy rock, then move up to the clean arete. Climb the arete, with airy 5.9 to 5.10a moves, to the final steep headwall.

The climbing gets harder here. At the 11th bolt, either continue straight up on small holds, or traverse right to a flared hand crack. I climbed the face right of the crack, using the crack and a small pine tree to the right. The crack variation is about 10c; the line following the bolts looked harder. The anchor bolts are a short distance above.

The leader should belay here and bring up the second, since it would take two ropes to lower.

Descent: With a single 60m rope, rappel 100' to a small ledge, from which you can downclimb (3rd class) 30' to the ground. With two ropes, rappel 130' directly to the ground.

The initial section of this climb is grungy, but the moves are good. The arete is clean and airy. The final headwall could use more cleaning. One star for good moves and good position, but there are some sections of uncleaned rock.

Protection

One or two cams (.5" to 1.25") and 12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The climb is 130' long; bring a 60m rope or two ropes to rappel.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
I did not notice chipped holds on this. The holds in the crux area are small edges, and it's hard to know how good they will be when you reach for them. This seems like a good, fun route. Oct 11, 2015
Led this today. Placed a #11 Stopper endwise and a #3 or 3.5 Friend before reaching the first bolt. Great climbing once you get to the arete (above 2nd bolt). Didn't see or use any chiseled or chipped or otherwise manufactured holds -- maybe 'cause I climbed to the right of the last two bolts. Until that point, I stayed with the arete. I clipped all 12 bolts. I highly recommend this route. Aug 28, 2013
slim

  5.10a
slim    
  5.10a
Basically your classic Pon route - ugly, dirty start, odd bolt locations, chipped, etc.... There is a stretch of pretty good climbing on here, but the chipped holds up high kind of killed it. Sep 13, 2010
Ben Randolph
Boulder, CO
 
Ben Randolph   Boulder, CO
 
Did this after doing the Crooked Cross. Really fun route. Needs to be cleaned up quite a bit. Didn't notice any chipping on the route. Just one spot looked like a small block pulled off though. Sep 18, 2006