Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: K. McLaughlin
Page Views: 816 total · 4/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 15, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is an excellent climb that doesn't get a ton of traffic.

To find this route, hike east (right) from the [Back to the Future Wall] about 100 yards to a thin, fairly tall wall that faces the trail. Above and to the left is a ledge system that accesses 2 offwidth looking cracks and a thin face route ([The Devil Made Me Dog It] - 12c). On the tall thin wall that faces the trail there is a bolted line that goes up the left hand side of the face near the arete. This is '[The Lesser of Two Evils]'. This route would be the second route that you would find if you were hiking west from the alcove that has the 3 routes - '[Dancing Shoes', 'Ethics, What Ethics]?', and '[Aerial Solution]'. Route number 556 in [William Prehm's] photo.

[Lesser of Two Evils] is a great route that hugs the left side of an arete through 3 or 4 [separate] cruxes. The cruxes, for me, included reaches on good holds, using some not-so-good holds, a funky little bulge, and some steep pinching to get to the anchors.

This route would be a great way to spend your time while waiting for traffic to free up on the nearby classics.

Protection

4 or 5 bolts and anchors. Bolts are in good locations for clipping.

Photos

Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado Springs
Kevin McLaughlin   Colorado Springs
F.A. K. Mclaughlin Jan 29, 2009