PRINT: Rock Climb Center Slab, Lyons

Center Slab

5.8+, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 13 votes
FA: Alvino Pon
Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Spire

Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays Details

Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.

From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.

During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.

codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…

Description

This is a new Alvino Pon route. "Center Slab" is a temporary name until the real name is known.

The route goes up the slab between Full Nelson Reilly and Dire Spire.

Begin at the big tree next to the rock. The first bolt is about 15' up and a little left of the tree.

Climb up behind the tree, clip the first bolt, and work up left to a ledge with a ring bolt. Climb up the slab and a shallow crack. Continue up the slab to the right edge of the roof, pass the roof on the right, and angle up left to the anchors.

The leader can belay the second from a good ledge at the two-bolt anchor. Rappel 95' back to the start.

Two stars for clean rock, continuity, and good moves.

Protection

8 bolts, 3 pins, 2-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brendan Sheehan passing the roof.

Center Slab route. Red = bolt, cyan = pin, yellow = anchors

Brendan Sheehan about halfway up the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward

Wow by looking at the pictures it looks like there are usable cracks for gear all the way up this one. Oct 16, 2003

Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO

While there are opportunities for gear placements along the way, some of the cracks are a bit too flaring and/or shallow. Apr 28, 2004

ac	[Hide Comment] As of 10/18 the first three bolts are missing their hangers. Easy climbing past bolt 1, there is good gear up to the first piton, but it does not just fall into the placements. There was a placement near each piton, in case you don't want to trust them. Oct 19, 2005

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.8

The hangers all got replaced, but I can't say as if they are needed. We did the whole route without a runout or clipping a single bolt. Sep 12, 2010

Hiro Protagonist
Colorado

Route is listed as "100 Stripes on a Fool's Back" in the Gillett book. The route info here is more up to date though (I say without having been out to the rock). Jun 29, 2012

Tyler Smeenk
Lyons, CO

5.9

Just led this yesterday, really good and fun route. I believe the first bolt is missing, but gear can be placed. I rated it 5.9, in my humble opinion, if leading the route. I think it's delightfully spicy. Supplemented bolts/pitons with some nuts, cams would work great as well. Go climb this route, folks! Clean up some of the feet :) Oct 26, 2017