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Routes in The Spire

Blow Chow T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Center Slab S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dire Spire T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Full Nelson Reilly II T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hire Spire T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spire-A-Jyra T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Alvino Pon
Page Views: 1,458 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a new Alvino Pon route. "Center Slab" is a temporary name until the real name is known.

The route goes up the slab between Full Nelson Reilly and Dire Spire.

Begin at the big tree next to the rock. The first bolt is about 15' up and a little left of the tree.

Climb up behind the tree, clip the first bolt, and work up left to a ledge with a ring bolt. Climb up the slab and a shallow crack. Continue up the slab to the right edge of the roof, pass the roof on the right, and angle up left to the anchors.

The leader can belay the second from a good ledge at the two-bolt anchor. Rappel 95' back to the start.

Two stars for clean rock, continuity, and good moves.

Protection

8 bolts, 3 pins, 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Tyler Smeenk
Laramie, WY
  5.9
Tyler Smeenk   Laramie, WY
  5.9
Just led this yesterday, really good and fun route. I believe the first bolt is missing, but gear can be placed. I rated it 5.9, in my humble opinion, if leading the route. I think it's delightfully spicy. Supplemented bolts/pitons with some nuts, cams would work great as well. Go climb this route, folks! Clean up some of the feet :) Oct 26, 2017
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
Route is listed as "100 Stripes on a Fool's Back" in the Gillett book. The route info here is more up to date though (I say without having been out to the rock). Jun 29, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
The hangers all got replaced, but I can't say as if they are needed. We did the whole route without a runout or clipping a single bolt. Sep 12, 2010
ac
ac  
As of 10/18 the first three bolts are missing their hangers. Easy climbing past bolt 1, there is good gear up to the first piton, but it does not just fall into the placements. There was a placement near each piton, in case you don't want to trust them. Oct 19, 2005
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
While there are opportunities for gear placements along the way, some of the cracks are a bit too flaring and/or shallow. Apr 28, 2004
Wow by looking at the pictures it looks like there are usable cracks for gear all the way up this one. Oct 16, 2003