Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Spire

Blow Chow T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Center Slab S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dire Spire T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Full Nelson Reilly II T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hire Spire T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spire-A-Jyra T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Alvino Pon
Page Views: 789 total, 5/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a new Alvino Pon route. "Right Arete" is a temporary name until the real name is known.

From the ledge with the big tree, scramble up a loose gully to a small ledge on the right side of the Spire. The first bolt is about 10' above this ledge.

Follow a line of 5 bolts and 2 pins up the arete to the top. A #1 Camalot can be placed after the third bolt, and the second pin can be backed up with a #.75 Camalot.

The moves up the arete are fun 5.8 to 5.9.

The crux is at the top: a bulging overhang, with a reachy move to get past it. The difficulty of this move is height-dependent, and may be harder than 5.10a for shorter people.

The leader can belay the second from a good ledge with a 2-bolt anchor at the top. Rappel 80' back to the start.

Two stars for clean rock, good moves, airy position, and an exciting crux.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 pins, plus several medium cams (#.75 and #1 Camalots). 2-bolt anchor at the top.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
This route is named Spire-A-Jyra. Oct 4, 2010
CharlieO  
 
The right side of the right arete needs some work.
I stayed to the right of the bolt line on my second scend. There is some vegetation on this side and does not appear to have been climbed much at all. About 1/3 of the way up I grabbed a nice jug, began pulling myself up on it and it ripped right off the wall. Luckily I held onto it and it did not fall on my belayer. I was much more cautious after this and found 2 large flakes which should probably have a crowbar taken to them. If you attempt this line, be cautious. The belayer should wear a helmet and be able to seek shelter underneath the overhang right above the belay area.

Just to the left of the bolt line was an awesome route, crux was sweet! Aug 1, 2010
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
Good, but reachy, moves over the roof. Definitely appears to be height-dependent.

The rock still needs to clean up a bit -- my second pulled off a softball sized hold from the right side of the arete. May 6, 2004