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Routes in The Bishop

Bishop Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bishop Offwidth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Craftwork T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ellingwood Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flounder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Psycho Physics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Unknown Handcrack - AKA The Right Splitter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,454 total · 8/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Aug 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is the large zigzagging crack that splits the main tower of the Bishop in two. This can be done in one pitch, but some smart rope management is necessary while squirming through some hard moves. There are no good spots to stop and belay when rope drag comes calling.Start up the right slanting ramp and clip the piton bolt hangers (4-5). The foot ramp ends and so does the casual climbing. The crux is 10' of diagonaling offwidth with nothing but blank rock for the right foot (painfully reminiscent of COF but reversed), and barely too wide for good handstacks. It may be possible to layback? Once the crack turns to vertical, 5.8ish chimneying is all that remains. There is little gear for the final 100' save for one old ring piton and a constriction for some cams at 40' and 80' respectively from the start of the chimney. It may be possible to place a #4 Big Bro in the first stretch of chimneying, but it is very secure climbing. We stayed right at the giant block towards the top for the easiest finish.Descend from the summit rap to the east. With one 60m you reach a second rappel, and then the ground.

Protection

1-4 Camalots. A rack of Big Bros. A 4.5 Camalot was the most useful. There is abundant fixed gear, but all of it is old.

Photos

rkrum
Colorado or somewhere else
  5.11a
rkrum   Colorado or somewhere else
  5.11a
This is one of the best offwidths I have done. The crux is short but sustained, engaging, and fun climbing. The chimney above the offwidth is a surreal experience, eerily reminiscent of Dragon's Lair in Long Canyon, and makes for absolutely one of my favorite single pitches of climbing on the Front Range.

The suggested gear above is incorrect, unless you consider wicked tipped out cams teetering on nubbins to be reasonable pro. I left the ground with the suggested rack and had to tag gear from a less than ideal stance once I got the to the offwidth. I would recommend singles #1-3, an old #4 Camalot or #5 Friend (a #4 c4 sorta works, I would consider taking an extra #5 if you do this though), a #5 c4, and a #6. I placed one blue Big Bro, but more blue Big Bros wouldn't go unused depending on how you feel about unprotected 5.8 chimney. If you do not intend to run this as a single pitch, you could use another couple big pieces if so inclined, but placing more than the above rack in one pitch would probably turn the upper chimneys into a much more significant effort.

With that said, I highly recommend linking this into one single pitch. It will require you to be pretty judicious about extending your placements in the offwidth crux, but it is quite a unique experience if done this way. How reasonable this feels may be dependent on which side in you choose to do the offwidth or one's tolerance for either gear clusterfuckage or runouts while squirming your way up a leaning offwidth. Feb 5, 2017
Patrick Peddy
evergreen,co
Patrick Peddy   evergreen,co
One of my favorite wide cracks in the Platte. Next time I'm up there all the antique hardware is coming down (just on the offwidth). Deserving of 3 stars. Dec 20, 2006