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Routes in Bean Liquor Wall

Bean Bagger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beano Hangover S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hambanger S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nice Doggie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
We Bean Jammin' aka Eat The Rich S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Rick Leitner, 1996
Page Views: 73 total, 0/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 16, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Step off the block in the drainage gully and clip a bolt that leads you up a low angle ramp/dihedral. A little confusing as to what Rick was looking for here. Clips are on the wall, however, we used the ramp on the right since climbing the face seemed loads harder than 5.11. Make a hard move off a deep jam for the super-protected crux and finish on an improbable fin. Cool move at the end.

Protection

Six draws, something for the top, and a rope.

Photos

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I climbed this in 2001 and noted that the first five bolts protect what was already a trad route named "Eat the Rich," which is in older guidebooks. WBJ is really only a variation to finish of ETR. The first five bolts are really unnecessary. Jun 18, 2012
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
  5.11d
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
  5.11d
I dispute the 11b rating for the crux as well. I was able to RP the second attempt, but I'm 6'1" and think anyone much shorter would have trouble reaching the sloper. The crux is just after clipping the last bolt. Then you jam the left hand as far to the right as you can. Get the left foot as high as possible and reach up and right for the sloper. I was able to get my tips on it. I'd tried dynoing to it on my first foray; it's too slopey for that. Then you have to cross over with the left hand, grab the fin, and do a few burly layback moves to the top. It's really a great move if you're tall enough. Unfortunately, the route itself warrants few stars because the bottom 2/3 follows the lame rightward-tending dihedral. Jul 13, 2008
Rich Kelly
Boulder
5.12a
Rich Kelly   Boulder
5.12a
I am 5'11" and could not reach the sloper out to the right from the jam for the life of me. My buddy barely reached it and he is 6'0" (he stemmed the seam to the left of the jam crack with his left foot which might have made all the difference. My hamstrings did not allow me to make this stretch!). He then somehow hung on to the sloper, adjusted his feet and then crossed thru to the fin. Not your typical 11b! More like 12a? Did we miss something? Oct 20, 2006