Avg: 2.3 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||?Ed Gerethy/Jeffery Butterfield, 1970s?|
|Page Views:||1,449 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Petro on Aug 8, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
This is the crack in the face to the right of Upside the Cranium. Choose your start wisely, as the beginning is a bit chossy, and gear is not always trustworthy. I was forced left of the little roof to avoid yarding on a loose flake and would rate the moves as 5.8 R. The dihedral to the right looks easier and safer. This climb starts to get sweet at the hand to finger crack with the shrub growing out of it. Follow it up and hand traverse right and then left to gain the thin steep crack (crux) near the top of the climb. Fingerjam and crimp up this sustained crack being cautious of the attached but moving flake about half way up the crack. Finish at the chains for Upside the C. Be careful when being lowered, as a 60 meter just makes it to the ledges at the bottom. With a little more traffic, this climb will only become sweeter.