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East Ridge

Easy 5th, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.1 from 107 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Hammerhead
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Protection

This is a class 4 route that where placing pro is unlikely due to nature of climb.

Description

This classic 4th Class scramble starts at the base of Hammerhead and goes up towards the obvious arch. This arch is apparently the longest arch in the Flatirons and has some great exposure. At this notch, climb down a bit and off the rock. At this point, you have several options, one is call it quits, another is ascend the north face via a short 5.7 pitch, and the last and probably best option is to go up the west face ledges on Yodeling Moves to get to the summit block. Once on the summit you can down limb Yodeling Moves or rap off the slings on top. Enjoy this sweet climb, truly a class 4 classic.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Below the arch on Hammerhead's East Face/Ridge route.
[Hide Photo] Below the arch on Hammerhead's East Face/Ridge route.
The end of our second pitch, here the arch has ended.
[Hide Photo] The end of our second pitch, here the arch has ended.
Looking down the first pitch. The crack in the foreground eventually delineates the arch.<br> <br> From this belay stance you can squeeze down through the crack and reach the underside of the arch and hiking territory. How do I know that? Because I did it in the opposite direction before the climb, we hiked up under the arch, and I squeezed through the crack and out onto the face, the exact spot I ended up belaying.
[Hide Photo] Looking down the first pitch. The crack in the foreground eventually delineates the arch. From this belay stance you can squeeze down through the crack and reach the underside of the arch and h…
Taken from Two-Move Rock.
[Hide Photo] Taken from Two-Move Rock.
Looking up at the arch which you climb over. You have to hike up left of the climb to get this perspective.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the arch which you climb over. You have to hike up left of the climb to get this perspective.
Climbing above the arch.
[Hide Photo] Climbing above the arch.
The conflicting angles of the tree on the right and the tree in the background are still confusing me. Anyway, here's the underside of the arch.
[Hide Photo] The conflicting angles of the tree on the right and the tree in the background are still confusing me. Anyway, here's the underside of the arch.
The East Ridge route, viewed from The Regency, with a soloist in a red shirt on the arch section. The actual "hammerhead" is out of view at the top.
[Hide Photo] The East Ridge route, viewed from The Regency, with a soloist in a red shirt on the arch section. The actual "hammerhead" is out of view at the top.
Ropeless on the East Ridge Route of Hammerhead.
[Hide Photo] Ropeless on the East Ridge Route of Hammerhead.
The start.
[Hide Photo] The start.
The arch on the east face of Hammerhead.
[Hide Photo] The arch on the east face of Hammerhead.
The climber is crossing the arch, although it doesn't appear to be an arch in the photo.
[Hide Photo] The climber is crossing the arch, although it doesn't appear to be an arch in the photo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
[Hide Comment] This scramble should not be missed, climbing over the arch is a blast. Before heading over the void take the time to move to the left a bit for a look at how long and skinny the span really is. I'm sure it's solid but I never feel like hanging out there for too long! Sep 6, 2003
Mic Fairchild
Boulder
[Hide Comment] This is a quality little route. Nice exposure and aesthetics for an easy climb. Jul 22, 2011
Jeff Fox
Delaware, OH
  4th
[Hide Comment] This was a fun one. Similar to El Camino Royale on The Regency but a tad shorter. Worth doing! A few steps north of the base of the 4th Flatiron...hard/impossible to see from the Royal Arch Trail though. Jan 31, 2012
George Bell
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] A large pine tree has fallen down onto the base of this route, making the start more complicated, but perhaps easier to identify. The tree fell down the gully to the right of the route, and the branches and trunk must be negotiated to reach the start of the route (unless you begin from the very base).

If you hike up to the left under the arch, beware of poison ivy. There is a lot of it in this area. Oct 26, 2015
George Bell
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Has anyone done the 5.7 finish to this climb? I looked at it yesterday, but it did not look very protectable. At the far left end of the vertical north face, there is a sort of inset, which you might be able to climb up and onto the top of the east face. Is that the route?

[Update: the Jason Haas guide says the variation isn't well protected.] Oct 26, 2015
Brian Felker
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed this last weekend. Beautiful climb on high quality rock. Mostly 4th class, but about 5% 5.4, and extremely runout, as is typical in the Flatirons. The competent 5.5 leader will enjoy this climb, as you will have to make some 5.4 moves with a 30 foot runout. As with most of the Flatirons, every stance is a rest.

Finish up on Yodeling Moves for a spectacular view. You sneak around the right side of the summit block to begin Yodeling Moves on the west face. Don't be intimidated by the overhanging appearance. Huge holds. We left a bright yellow sling with a biner on the northwest corner of the summit block for rappelling. Mar 1, 2016
Keith W
Westminster
  4th
[Hide Comment] Wow! Great scramble! Excellent position, and super easy climbing. Do this route! We finished the evening on this after linking the regency and Royal Arch. Great way to end a day. Jun 3, 2016
Long Ranger
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Climbing on top of the arch is totally unreal. Anyone spy the crack forming width-wise right in the middle of it?! Oct 20, 2016
Jeff Montgomery
North Denver Metro, CO
  4th
[Hide Comment] Beta if you are a 4th-class climber/scrambler. Bring climbing-specific shoes, i.e. climbing or approach shoes and you will be happier. The bottom 30 feet is smooth and has some lichen/green coating, so it leans towards woodsy friction climbing. Above that before the arch, it's fun 3rd/4th class like the Freeway ridge. The arch is more of a psychological factor than a physical difficulty. IMO the toughest move is near the end, where the bomber hand holds dry up and you need to do a frictiony move with a couple hundred feet of slab behind you. Similar to the last move on the first pitch of Freeway. Sep 17, 2017
J.Frost
[Hide Comment] No anchors or rap slings on top as of April 3, 2022. Apr 3, 2022
Eli Zabielski
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Even though this is like 20 feet off the trail, it doesn't see much traffic, and there is a little lichen on the main line. It's a great scramble though. The arch is a sweet gem, and you get to climb the whole span. The east face is standard, low 5th Class, angled Flatiron terrain. At the top of the east face, you step onto dirt, where you can either take a climber's trail back down or continue to the top on Yodeling Moves. Yodeling Moves is a fun short traverse on great holds but near vertical exposure. Apr 22, 2022