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Routes in Third Pinnacle

Halls of Ivy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Red Tide T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thin Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trident T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Flakes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Wide Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 229 total, 1/month
Shared By: James Garnett on Jun 13, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Begin as for Trident, but instead of turning the large roof, traverse left on the ledge and surmount a much smaller and easier one. Excellent fingerlocks and handholds and a good flake to get your right foot upon while overcoming this roof make this an easy route. Above the roof, scramble straight up in a wide crack (practically a chimney) above, or else venture right onto the slab for more interesting climbing.

Protection

Standard Flatiron rack.

Photos

Matt Bentley
Boulder, CO
 
Matt Bentley   Boulder, CO
 
This is a really fun, very easy route that is great for toprope. You can basically hike up the backside of the Third Pinnacle and loop a couple of big points in the rock with a couple of slings and/or cord for a TR anchor. There's good options for pro as well up top.

It's a bit short, but the fun roof move and small chimney/big crack at the top makes this a fun and diverse route. Don't expect it to blow your mind, but it's a fun warm-up or easy climb for people trying outdoor climbing for the first time.

A side note: you can use the same anchor for Toproping Trident (5.7), which is a little bit harder with a very fun, more prominent roof.

It gets shade most of the afternoon in summer and most of the day in the winter, so do it on a very warm winter day (common in Boulder), or save it for the summer when the sun rises a bit higher in the sky. Feb 20, 2017
Full sun makes this a hot climb on a typical summer day, the tree to the east will keep the base in shade until 10:00, maybe 11:00ish - plan on full sun until 2:00ish. Shady all afternoon, but only if there are no thunderstorms.

Great climb; my 14 year old and 12 year old boys had a great day and both climbed twice. The roof was intimidating to them from the ground, but it was a piece of cake once up with lots of hand and foot holds on this route. Be careful rappelling back down over the roof. After they figured out this move, they loved it. Aug 2, 2012
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
  5.5
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
  5.5
Start underneath the small tree is a bit harder. I'd recommend flipping your rope to the climber's right of the tree right away, otherwise you'll spend 10 minutes trying to get it unstuck from the branches.

Thought it was harder than a standard Flatiron 5.4, especially starting under the small tree. Aug 26, 2010
nick moeckel  
 
I thought that the crack below and left of the rooflet, with a scrawny tree at the top, was a more interesting way to start than scrambling up below trident. Mar 8, 2005