Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Baba Fats

5.11a, Sport,  Avg: 3.7 from 50 votes
FA: T. Perkins and M.J. Golau, 2002
Colorado > Independence Pass > Ptarmigan Creek… > Greg's Cliff

Description

Baba Fats is on the left side of Greg's Cliff. The approach trail will drop you right in front of the route.

A classic route! Although there are rests, the route is deceptively overhanging and strenuous. Follow the black streak in the rock, starting at a small, slabby section. The climbing is primarily face climbing on horizontal holds. The crux is a long, strenuous section in the middle of the route.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Linda Chang and Baba Fats
[Hide Photo] Linda Chang and Baba Fats
JG getting into the crux on Baba Fats.
[Hide Photo] JG getting into the crux on Baba Fats.
Linda Chang contemplating the crux section
[Hide Photo] Linda Chang contemplating the crux section

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] The name 'Baba Fats' is a reference to the Nepalese guru in 'The Perfect High' by none other than children's' author Shel Silverstein (Where the Sidewalk Ends, The Giving Tree). The poem (which is not at all suitable for children) first appeared in Playboy magazine in 1979. Feb 13, 2006
Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Undoubtedly one of the coolest routes anywhere! Do it! BTW, I couldn't help noticing a couple of old pitons on this route. Anyone know the true FA history? Aug 25, 2007
[Hide Comment] One of the best 11a's I've ever done, keeps you smiling all the way to the chains. Aug 30, 2009
Will Sharp
Breck, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Nice route with very interesting movement. WARNING! There is a huge block at the top that is sitting on a sloping ramp that you kind of have to grab that will go on the next big person that grabs it! If you can do the move without grabbing the block, you will be ok, but if you are short, avoid this route! Jul 18, 2014
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] This is a fun route. At 5'7" it was pretty frustrating though. I felt like I was throwing to basically every move after the second bolt. The top is either a scary dyno or the no hands super balance to a mini dyno.

I would like to try it again though and see if I can link up the moves. Sep 14, 2015
Japhy Dhungana
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] At 5'5", I didn't find it to be beyond my reach. Good technique and good sequencing gets you all the way up without any dynamic moves. Don't listen to the comments about it being "height-dependent." Sep 10, 2017
Julius Grisette
Carbondale
[Hide Comment] Ripped a big flake off the top a couple years ago. Seems harder upon revisiting. Maybe I am just a wuss.... Sep 12, 2017