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Zamboni Man
5.10d,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 63
votes
FA: Bill Schmausser, 1996
Colorado
> S Platte
> Elevenmile Canyon
> Arch Rock
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st, 2016-2021
Details
For 2022: per Daniel Bryant: they did extend the order, but what I found was that the closed area does not encompass any of the common climbing areas within Elevenmile Canyon.
This is the sport climb on the arete/face to the right of Hollow Flake that Roger Wilkerson mentioned. Climb the right side of the pillar just to the right of the Hollow Flake start. The cracks at the top protect well with small gear. Swing onto the face, and follow the line of four bolts to the top. Belay/rap from the anchors above Hollow Flake. The crux is just before the fourth bolt where the face thins. It has good friction.
[Hide Photo] Those nice men did let me try out their shoes though. That was great.
[Hide Photo] I met these two nice men at the base of Zamboni Man. They aren't as cute as the girls I met in Shelf Road though. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106859503
[Hide Comment] Wow, what a cool route...this is the first pitch of the Sprout Route. Starts off with a .7 move then a .8 then .9 then is in the .10 range through most of the top...fun moves right on the arete with a little exposure.
May 29, 2004
[Hide Comment] This is not the first pitch of The Sprout Route. I don't know what the name is or who did it. Anyone want to claim it? The first pitch of The Sprout is just to the right and clings past 2 bolts then up thin cracks to the Hollow Flake Ledge. Anyway, this arete route is fun and devious. The 4th bolt is hard to clip though and right in the middle of the route crux...
Jun 7, 2005
That's my work on the arete, nearly 10 years ago now...damn, I'm getting to be almost as old as you...LOL!
I rated it 5.11-, but I was on the lead toting a Bosch...so it always seems harder...go figure. I agree with the posters, probaby hard 5.10. Name of the route is Zamboni Man. 5.10c.
[Hide Comment] Great route! Don't know if it's been retro'd, but there are 5 bolts. I'd say the crux was just below (still out of reach) the 4th bolt; secondary crux between the 4th and 5th bolts.
Edit 9/27/10: now that I've led this all the way through, I believe there is also a secondary crux at the second bolt; quite sequential and balancy.
Aug 12, 2010
[Hide Comment] Really nice climb. I felt the first crux was around 10b and the last move before clipping the 5th bolt was awfully thin to be 5.10. But maybe I missed a hidden hold on the arete side pull. Either way this is a really nice slab climb.
Aug 30, 2010
[Hide Comment] I agree with the two cruxes. I remember at the second bolt my partner saying this must be the business and then he got near the 4th and said, nope this is the business.
Has anyone else swung left after the 4th bolt onto the face and then came back up with the heel hook to get the 5th? It seemed to work well for us and is much easier than it looked. Great route and fun wierd exposure to the left.
Oct 25, 2010
[Hide Comment] Bill, good job toting a Bosch up it. I've gawked at people on this for 10 yrs and finally led it on my 43 Bday last summer and was pretty damn proud of it. I thought it was spot on .11-, so let's let an aging rock rat have his pie, ok?
Jan 16, 2012
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st, 2016-2021
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Colorado Springs, CO
That's my work on the arete, nearly 10 years ago now...damn, I'm getting to be almost as old as you...LOL!
I rated it 5.11-, but I was on the lead toting a Bosch...so it always seems harder...go figure. I agree with the posters, probaby hard 5.10. Name of the route is Zamboni Man. 5.10c.
Cheers,
Bill May 14, 2006
Colorado Springs, CO
Edit 9/27/10: now that I've led this all the way through, I believe there is also a secondary crux at the second bolt; quite sequential and balancy. Aug 12, 2010
Boulder, CO
Colorado Springs
Has anyone else swung left after the 4th bolt onto the face and then came back up with the heel hook to get the 5th? It seemed to work well for us and is much easier than it looked. Great route and fun wierd exposure to the left. Oct 25, 2010
Colorado Springs
Colorado Springs, CO
colorado springs co