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Routes in Irok

Bagmom S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bunker Buster S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kick Their Ass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
M1A1 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
MOAB S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shock and Awe S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Take Their Gas S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Towelhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: T-zilla Rap-drilla, Gern Blinston
Page Views: 995 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tod Anderson on Apr 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the third route from the left on Irok featuring overhanging climbing for the first 30 feet. The crux is between the second and third bolt and is followed by some strenuous, but slightly easier climbing to a slab. The headwall above the slab is about 5.10b. Powerful and technical climbing on not so painful holds make this one of the better outings at the crag. Some of the bunker busters launched off of here made it all the way to the creek. Watch for wasps in the crack in the lower part of the slab.

Protection

13 quickdraws + anchors.

Photos

Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
Fun movement through the bottom, leading to the cruxiest of lip turns, which takes a bit of the fun away. That said, the FAs should have stopped while they were ahead...the headwall above the slab is truly awful. Long, awkward moves between okay but not entirely clean edges, mixed with guano and choss really ruin the rest of the route, especially since it's out of character with both the start and the slab. (I'm not using choss metaphorically, I actually took a hand-sized piece off that came with me while the rope caught me and I half-decked on the slab below the headwall.) Apr 16, 2017
Brady C.
Lakewood, CO
  5.12b
Brady C.   Lakewood, CO
  5.12b
So the sequence at the 4th bolt totally stumped me (after the vertical hand jam). It seemed much more difficult than the earlier sequence... any beta out there? Apr 18, 2014
I think the route falls just short of 4 stars. The move to the slab is all torque. Aug 9, 2003
Tod Anderson  
 
These are quite possibly the best routes in the entire universe, if you can send on IROK? Aug 6, 2003