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Routes in Millennium Crag
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Any Way You Slice It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Carpet Bombing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Curiosity Killed the Cat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Throwing the Baby Out With the Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Tony Bubb & Peter Spindloe, 6/29/03 |
| Page Views: | 662 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 28, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: Permit to access - required?
Details
Per Tony B: according to this recently published map from OSMP, Millenium Crag is now in an HCA and requires a permit to visit: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….
Description
B-52 was a named derrived from the "Bomb-bay dihedral" 10 meters off of the ground. If you don't know what a bomb-bay dihedral is, you just have to go do this route- it's unique crux was difficult to rate- more of a jessery problem than a crux... As well, there were no "bombs" coming off duriing the FA- as the rock on this route is solid.
Head up the hill perhaps 60 meters from "Throwing The Baby..." until you see a distinguished bright yellow section of the wall up above, perhaps a 10-15 meter area, 20 meters up. "Carpet Bombing" then up and right a little further to a "hanging dihedral above a bulge, perhaps 10 Meters off of the ground, with a conifer growing out of it. Climb up to the base of this dihedral, set good pro, then work through the overhang and up into the dihedral. The chockstone in it just up from the start is SOLID and was used by the FA party. The crux is working up into the dihedral and seems to be 5.10a, but may be much harder for some people, as there are a limited number of ways to get it done. Climb up the right-facing dihedral for 7 meters, passing the tree and then working up and left on mostly good flakes to rech the belay as for "Carpet Bombing."
Rap from this anchor.
This climb was lightly cleaned by the FA party and is reasonably safe and solid for most leaders. It's also a pretty good line that would see frequent ascents if it were at a popular crag.
Head up the hill perhaps 60 meters from "Throwing The Baby..." until you see a distinguished bright yellow section of the wall up above, perhaps a 10-15 meter area, 20 meters up. "Carpet Bombing" then up and right a little further to a "hanging dihedral above a bulge, perhaps 10 Meters off of the ground, with a conifer growing out of it. Climb up to the base of this dihedral, set good pro, then work through the overhang and up into the dihedral. The chockstone in it just up from the start is SOLID and was used by the FA party. The crux is working up into the dihedral and seems to be 5.10a, but may be much harder for some people, as there are a limited number of ways to get it done. Climb up the right-facing dihedral for 7 meters, passing the tree and then working up and left on mostly good flakes to rech the belay as for "Carpet Bombing."
Rap from this anchor.
This climb was lightly cleaned by the FA party and is reasonably safe and solid for most leaders. It's also a pretty good line that would see frequent ascents if it were at a popular crag.
Photos
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