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Routes in Millennium Crag

Any Way You Slice It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B-52 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carpet Bombing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Curiosity Killed the Cat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Throwing the Baby Out With the Bath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tony Bubb & Peter Spindloe, 6/29/03
Page Views: 57 total, 0/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 28, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

B-52 was a named derrived from the "Bomb-bay dihedral" 10 meters off of the ground. If you don't know what a bomb-bay dihedral is, you just have to go do this route- it's unique crux was difficult to rate- more of a jessery problem than a crux... As well, there were no "bombs" coming off duriing the FA- as the rock on this route is solid.

Head up the hill perhaps 60 meters from "Throwing The Baby..." until you see a distinguished bright yellow section of the wall up above, perhaps a 10-15 meter area, 20 meters up. "Carpet Bombing" then up and right a little further to a "hanging dihedral above a bulge, perhaps 10 Meters off of the ground, with a conifer growing out of it. Climb up to the base of this dihedral, set good pro, then work through the overhang and up into the dihedral. The chockstone in it just up from the start is SOLID and was used by the FA party. The crux is working up into the dihedral and seems to be 5.10a, but may be much harder for some people, as there are a limited number of ways to get it done. Climb up the right-facing dihedral for 7 meters, passing the tree and then working up and left on mostly good flakes to rech the belay as for "Carpet Bombing."

Rap from this anchor.

This climb was lightly cleaned by the FA party and is reasonably safe and solid for most leaders. It's also a pretty good line that would see frequent ascents if it were at a popular crag.

Protection

This route is one of the better protected lines, and can be done with a standard light rack.

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