Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Ken Trout & Erik Winkleman, circa 1984
Page Views: 4,320 total · 21/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

To find this route, locate the Teepee-Tower Crack (see directions that are given for that route). From the Tee-Pee-Tower Crack, hike uphill to the left approximately 100 yards. The route is the obvious finger crack in a corner with a slab on the left wall to make it easier to layback. There is a short chimney section halfway up the route.

To get up to this crack, either scramble straight up (3rd to 4th class), or hike a little further up the hill to get on a ledge that you can walk across.

This was a nice pitch with excellent rock, beautiful finger locking/laybacking and a fun little chimney section. Getting out of the chimney might be the crux, but you can have a hand to fist-sized cam above your head. The laybacking is a bit pumpy, so keep an eye out for the rest stances. Set a gear belay after traversing a little left at the top on a little ridge.

To descend, go over the other side of the little ridge. We did this by scrambling up the little chimney behind the belay perch (assuming east is the direction that you were hiking when you walked up the gully to the base of the route), then you walk along little ledges towards the east until you can rap from a little tree on a ledge. There are slings and a quicklink. This puts you slightly up-gully from the base of the route.

Protection

The protection is excellent, stoppers and cams from TCUs up to #3 Camalot or bigger.

Photos