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Routes in Wigwam Dome

El Supremo T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hill's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Slipper T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Little Bo Peep Diploma T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
On the Edge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pow Wow Canal T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Ramblin' Rose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teepee Tower Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trail of Tears T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trout-Baker Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Violent Energy T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Warpath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wunsch's Simulator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Ken Trout & Erik Winkleman, circa 1984
Page Views: 3,144 total, 18/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

To find this route, locate the Teepee-Tower Crack (see directions that are given for that route). From the Tee-Pee-Tower Crack, hike uphill to the left approximately 100 yards. The route is the obvious finger crack in a corner with a slab on the left wall to make it easier to layback. There is a short chimney section halfway up the route.

To get up to this crack, either scramble straight up (3rd to 4th class), or hike a little further up the hill to get on a ledge that you can walk across.

This was a nice pitch with excellent rock, beautiful finger locking/laybacking and a fun little chimney section. Getting out of the chimney might be the crux, but you can have a hand to fist-sized cam above your head. The laybacking is a bit pumpy, so keep an eye out for the rest stances. Set a gear belay after traversing a little left at the top on a little ridge.

To descend, go over the other side of the little ridge. We did this by scrambling up the little chimney behind the belay perch (assuming east is the direction that you were hiking when you walked up the gully to the base of the route), then you walk along little ledges towards the east until you can rap from a little tree on a ledge. There are slings and a quicklink. This puts you slightly up-gully from the base of the route.

Protection

The protection is excellent, stoppers and cams from TCUs up to #3 Camalot or bigger.

Photos

Slim, 2008?

Well, let's put it this way. If in 2008 I had seen this route, I'd have loved it and given you a full trip report. Since it is 2016 and I just found out this thing existed, I rapped down it after climbing Wunsch's Sim and thought it looked cool. Sorry to disappoint. Jul 6, 2016
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
I remember well Steve ranting about that crack. Jerry, heard you guys had a good time while Olaf and Steve where here. Wish I had been in town. Jun 29, 2009
Jerry Rock
Conifer, CO
Jerry Rock   Conifer, CO
Sergio,

That would be Little Bo Peep Diploma 5.12c FA Noel Childs, Steve Morris and Jerry Rock around 1987. Jun 29, 2009
slim

  5.10a
slim    
  5.10a
Sergio,

Is it an overhanging lightning bolt sort of crack in orange-red rock? Probably Charlie's Crack, supposedly 5.12. Haven't done it. Very inviting line. John Langston, are you out there? Get to work and give us a full report! Jul 22, 2008
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
  5.10a
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
  5.10a
The Trout guide book says this route would be improved with anchors at the top and I have to agree.

About 100' uphill from the start of Wunsch's Simulator is an overhanging finger crack. Does anyone know anything about that route? It looks super hard, maybe 5.12+. This route does have an anchor on top that you can rap off with 2 80' raps. Jul 21, 2008
Tom Hayes  
 
Very high quality pitch. One of the best at it's grade in the Platte. The ridge at the top is run out at 5.6 or so. A bit scary if windy! Definitely worth doing if you are up at Wigwam. A lot of med-sized TCU's. Only 1 #3 and #4 Camalots needed. Nov 4, 2005