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Fossil Family

5.12a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3 from 150 votes
FA: Brad Buhrow, Eric Candee
Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mtn Park > Nappy Dugout

Description

On the left side of the Nappy Dugout is Fossil Family. It's recognized by its first three bolts (homemade and shared with Family Unit) and by the right-trending and upward (of course) discontinuous seam that comprises its upper half.

Climb up to the third bolt, then move up and right along the seam for three more clips, passing a rooflet near the sixth bolt, to a two bolt anchor. STELLAR, power-sapping climbing on good holds adds up to a super-fun climb worthy of many stars.

After you send... do the next climber a favor by scrubbing one or two of the seam holds during your victorious lower from the anchors.... Maybe some day we'll be able to touch actual stone in the upper seam of Fossil Family?

Protection

Eight quickdraws (includes the anchor).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fossil Family - 5.12a.
[Hide Photo] Fossil Family - 5.12a.
Rest after low crux.
[Hide Photo] Rest after low crux.
Lorena with some knee beta.
[Hide Photo] Lorena with some knee beta.
Low on Fossil Family.
[Hide Photo] Low on Fossil Family.
Diana Rogers clipping and sending!.
[Hide Photo] Diana Rogers clipping and sending!.
Jacob flying through the traverse on Fossil Family.
[Hide Photo] Jacob flying through the traverse on Fossil Family.
Diana Rogers leading Fossil Family.
[Hide Photo] Diana Rogers leading Fossil Family.
Working into the three finger pocket of the upper crux
[Hide Photo] Working into the three finger pocket of the upper crux
Working through the low crux
[Hide Photo] Working through the low crux
Upper crux on Fossil Family.
[Hide Photo] Upper crux on Fossil Family.
Route
[Hide Photo] Route
Chris K. sticking the reachy lower crux move.
[Hide Photo] Chris K. sticking the reachy lower crux move.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

chad wolak
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] This comment is to supplement the above route description :

Sometime in the fall of 2003 I noticed the first three homemade bolts of this route have been replaced with modern bolts. Also, in-situ lower chains are installed. Jan 23, 2004
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Very, very fun route. Well worth doing. Jun 10, 2007
dbyte
Carbondale, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I second Dr. Evil's opinion - good movements on generally decent holds, but still somehow deceptively pumpy. Also has fixed draws to simplify getting on it. I imagine cleaning the gear would add a crux. Jun 14, 2007
Evan Winn
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Check the in-situ draw on the last bolt. A sharp bit of rock likes to eat thruogh the webbing at the top biner. Draws don't last long on that bolt. There is a "new" one up now and the fall is clean if the draw fails but still be aware.

Other than that, it is an excellent climb, and I highly recommend it, even if you don't consider yourself a 5.12 climber (due to strength or injury). Good holds make it accessible, but the pump and power moves makes it worth the rating. Aug 24, 2009
Brandon Tilton
Denver, CO
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Felt harder than pinchfest. May 10, 2018
Jonas Helton
Evergreen
[Hide Comment] Super awesome climb! Check out the beta video!: youtube.com/shorts/XxnAWtDJ…. Aug 17, 2023