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5.11d, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 43 votes
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand, 2003
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Bowling Alley > Lower Right Side
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This route starts on the far right side of the Bowling Alley 50 feet from the highway. Just left of a four-bolt route is a nice clean face with a two-bolt anchor (unfinished route) 50 feet off the ground. Start on the right side of the face and climb up blocky rock to the first bolt. Climb on good holds up to the third bolt. Tend right and make a series of hard laybacking moves (crux) up a steep face to a large ledge.Reach the ledge and climb up to a bolt on a steep face. Make a hard move past the bolt and reach a slanting crack. Crank up the crack tending left to a exposed moves on the arete. Crank up past the short corner to the belay. The route will clean-up with more ascents and should see a fair amount of traffic being so close to the road. A 200 foot rope just makes it to the ground.


Eleven bolts to two-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Splitting Hares, A Tall Cool One, and Centennial. On Lower Bowling Alley, near the road.<br>
Photo by Vaino Kodas; used with permission.
[Hide Photo] Splitting Hares, A Tall Cool One, and Centennial. On Lower Bowling Alley, near the road. Photo by Vaino Kodas; used with permission.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Hand
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] I'll respond to Paul Findley's question about routes below the Practice Rock from the Bowling Alley area to try to move some discussions off the Pinchusion route.

You can see from the picture of Centennial that it is one of the routes. Several of the routes are in the database. Some are not as they were done by another climber and the names are not known.

Here is what I know (the ratings may be off +/- many letters grades): From left to right (walk uphill past the big tree in the picture):

1. trad short crack 5.10? (recent new route)
2. Dry Run 5.9, 3 bolts
3. Happy Ending 5.10, 7 bolts (with hard move getting to anchors)
4. Father Figure 5.11b
5. Shady Deal 5.11, stemming dihedral
6. Splitting Hares 5.10 (pictured)
7. A Tall Cool One 5.12, 9 bolts
8. Centennial 5.11c/d (100ft pitch)
9. Curb Service, 4 bolts (on a block separate from the wall) (2 routes on this block)
10. Just Like Nebraska 5.11d (100 ft right of Centennial)
11. Zee Eliminator 5.10 (1980 trad route) Jul 10, 2003
[Hide Comment] Thanks, man! Jul 10, 2003
[Hide Comment] This route has some great moves. The highway noise is as bad as it gets, but then that's what you'd expect with a 50 foot approach.

There is a big ledge about 60 feet up the route. The headwall above this ledge has a tricky move above the 2nd bolt (8th bolt overall). The belayer cannot see the leader at this point, plus there is a good amount of rope stretch so a fall can result in the leader hitting the ledge.

The right to the left, Splitting Hares, has a similar upper headwall above a ledge with a hard move at the first bolt. Be careful here too. Oct 13, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Felt hard, but maybe I was slipping off too much on lichen and loose rock. It might be worth more stars after a good brush-down. Harder than the supposed 11d/12a to the left and slippery in a few spots. May 21, 2005
Aeon Aki

[Hide Comment] This route has cleaned up very nicely, and the upper pitch is among the best I've done at the Bowling Alley. May 6, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] It has cleaned up very nicely & become a worthy route. This would still be a tough on-sight. Jul 28, 2009
Halley Stocks
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This route is tricky when it's raining.... Jul 10, 2014
Connor Moynihan
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] I don't think going to the second anchors is worth doing with the rope stretch, ledge fall potential, and being out of sight from your belayer. It's a great hard 11 route by just finishing at the first set of anchors. Aug 16, 2021