PRINT: Rock Climb Off The Cuff, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Off The Cuff

5.6 X, Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 0.9 from 7 votes
FA: [M. Brooks, Pierce, Stuberg, C. Harrison, 1981]
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Peanuts Walls > Lower Peanuts

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

The first pitch, as described in the Rossiter guide, is fun and worth doing if you have a few minutes. It is only about 30 feet of climbing (fingers- to hands-sized crack that can be jammed or done as a lieback).

The second pitch is not recommended. As descibed in the guidebook, you climb a 10 inch crack behind a flake. I got into the offwidth, threw a sling around the top of the flake (the only real protection at this point), made a few offwidth moves, and swung my body to the outside of the flake. As my body was making the swing, the top several feet of the flake tilted away from the wall with me and then thudded back into place. There is a tiny (non visible) fracture through the flake. I nearly pitched off the climb while being clipped to a 500 lb. rock!! My belayer said that the top of the flake tilted so far away from the rock that she didn't understand why it went back into place. We have decided that the only reason it did, was because the momentum of my body was moving back into the wall when it tilted.

Basically, don't do the second pitch until this flake falls.

Protection

Standard Eldo rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stef Van Wychen on Off The Cuff at Lower Peanuts, in Eldo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA

It seems that this worrisome block has fallen off.... Jul 30, 2003

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.6 R

Indeed the flake on the left has been decapitated and is safe to climb. May 30, 2012

Ben Burnett
NM

5.6 PG13

Fun, easy climbing, guarded by some lichen and loose blocks. Gear is sparse on top, but the crux is at the bottom. Makes for a good 100 ft pitch to the summit ridge.

Take RPs and micro cams. A tall leader can get in a piece from the top of the decapitated flake before continuing on.

Located 8 feet left of the clean "Fickle Finger of 8", left-facing dihedral. Start at a short overhand with a wide slot in it. Head for the obvious OW and tree reaching out at the top. Aug 8, 2012

Justin Brunson
Tacoma WA

So is the X rating obsolete then? May 3, 2014