Teepee Tower Crack
Avg: 3.4 from 24 votes
Routes in Wigwam Dome
|El Supremo T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Hill's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lady Slipper T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Little Bo Peep Diploma T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|On the Edge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Pow Wow Canal T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Ramblin' Rose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Teepee Tower Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Trail of Tears T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Trout-Baker Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Violent Energy T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Warpath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Wunsch's Simulator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Ken Trout and Eric Winkelman, 1984|
|Page Views:||6,047 total, 34/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Milhaupt on Jun 12, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionClimbed this route on Friday the 13th, so the hailstorm shouldn't have been such a surprise. This route receives no praise in the guidebooks in the form of stars, but we thought it was a great two pitches of mostly wide hands with a few wider sections.
Hike up to the start of the gully on the left side of Wigwam Dome. The route starts in the first left-facing dihedral you come across. There are several leftward bulges in the crack ~50' up.
Climb 100' to a sling belay on a ledge on the right. Pitch two continues up the crack through a fun roof for about 150' to a bolted belay on the face to the left. A more comfortable belay can be had on a chockstone in the crack. Rappel down and over the overhang on the left, to the gully. Our 60m made it on rope stretch. It would also be possible to rappel down the slab. I'm not sure if a 60m would make it.