Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ken Trout and Eric Winkelman, 1984
Page Views: 6,595 total · 34/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Jun 12, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

26 Opinions

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Climbed this route on Friday the 13th, so the hailstorm shouldn't have been such a surprise. This route receives no praise in the guidebooks in the form of stars, but we thought it was a great two pitches of mostly wide hands with a few wider sections.

Hike up to the start of the gully on the left side of Wigwam Dome. The route starts in the first left-facing dihedral you come across. There are several leftward bulges in the crack ~50' up.

Climb 100' to a sling belay on a ledge on the right. Pitch two continues up the crack through a fun roof for about 150' to a bolted belay on the face to the left. A more comfortable belay can be had on a chockstone in the crack. Rappel down and over the overhang on the left, to the gully. Our 60m made it on rope stretch. It would also be possible to rappel down the slab. I'm not sure if a 60m would make it.


Camalots #1-4, small Big Bros are nice.
Great route! we definitely felt it was 3 stars. Couple notes (or opinions):

Bring 2 60 meter ropes to get off (by rapping off of the 3 bolts at the top). As Brian said, rap towards the climber's left, and you will go over a wild, exposed arete and into an overhanging corner. There is one little spot where there is a slight crease in the arete that the ropes will settle into and keep them form grinding on the lip of the arete.

I think the first pitch was about 120'. This pitch felt 10 times harder than any 8 at Turkey. YMMV.

Second pitch. Wow. This felt about 10 times harder than any 9 at Turkey. Again YMMV. The pitch is deceptively long and more strenuous than I would have guessed. If you are even remotely challenged at 5.9 (such as myself), you will want to carry your body weight in #3 Camalots and #4 Friends. We had a double set of Camalots and 2 #4 Friends. I lead the first 60 feet and was pretty much out of wide hand/fist gear. I wussed, and my partner lead it. He cleaned one of the #3 Camalots and shoved it for about 100' (I think he was able to dump one or maybe 2 pieces in the #1 to #2 Camalot range.

The anchor was ok, but not the best. One 1/4" Star Dryvin, one 1/4" button, and one 3/8" that looked ok. Probably won't kill anybody in the next 6 months. Jun 23, 2003
First pitch felt 10 times harder than any 5.8 at Turkey, second pitch felt 10 times harder than any 5.9 at Turkey. Second pitch is deceptively long and fairly uniform in the big-hands to fist-range for gear. from the ground this pitch looks like a piece of cake, but it has weird awkward geometry that makes it kind of strenuous (for me anyway). Most people will want to carry a lot of #3 Camalots and #4 Friends. We had a relatively small rack in this size, and my partner shoved a #3 Camalot for the last 100 feet. I think he was able to dump a #2 Camalot and a #1 Camalot along the way. Damn good route. Jun 24, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
The Trout guide says, paraphrased, "Your happiness on this route will be in direct proportion to the number of #4 Friends you carry." He's referring to P2.

Here is the massive amount of gear we used (wide crack masters can ignore this):
P1: singles to red Camalot, doubles to #4 Camalot.
P2: Triples from .75 to #3/blue Camalot, #4 Friend, 3.5 Camalot, double #4 Camalots. I used 3 .75 Camalots and a #1 plus a couple of Aliens for the belay at the top of P2 (I didn't want to delay at the sketchy rap bolts on the slab). And with all this gear I had to leap frog a long way below the low-angle trough. I should have started leap frogging from the the start on P2. The pitch is long!

The rap bolts on the left are pretty bad. There is one 3/8" bolt sticking way out plus 2 old 1/4" bolts. We rigged the rap from the gully rather than have 3 of us hanging from the bolts at one time. Nov 1, 2006
Jonathan White
highlands ranch, co
Jonathan White   highlands ranch, co
Fun climb; however, you need a 65m+ rope to rap and bring extra 2,3,4 Camalots for the second pitch. Oct 15, 2007
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Trevor   Cottonwood Heights, UT
Among the best in the Platte! It is possible to rap hard to climber's left from top of pitch 2 with a 60m. May 19, 2008
Alan Searcy
Pine, Colorado
Alan Searcy   Pine, Colorado
Can be done as one very long pitch if your second simul climbs the first 30 feet. Not recommended that you do it thataway. It's a bonafide runout, burn-your-underwear, feels like 10b, asswhuppin' horror show if done as one. Jun 2, 2008
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
You can rap off the 1st pitch with one 60m rope at the sling belay. Jul 14, 2008
John Maurer
Denver, CO
John Maurer   Denver, CO
You can rap from the anchors just left of the end of the 2nd pitch with a 60m rope IF YOU GO TO THE TREE 40 feet below and rap again from there. Two of the anchors are 1/4 inchers (one Star dryven, if I remember correctly) but the 3rd is bomber. Be sure to have your mid-point pretty precise and you can get down the hanging gully, too (on stretch). Jul 30, 2009
justin watts
Golden, CO
justin watts   Golden, CO
A 70m makes the rap down the slab, the direct rap. Be careful though it just barely reaches the second set of bolts. Jul 31, 2009
Wally   Denver
GREAT route! Here is our gear list:

Stoppers - none! Leave them at home.
Aliens - single set green through red.
Camalot juniors - double set.
Camalots - 2 ones, 3 twos, 5 or 6 threes, 2 or 3 fours (either old style or new).
The second pitch is the money pitch. Long and pretty darn sustained!
A 70 meter rope is best for the rap. The rap bolts are mank but at least there are three of them. Apr 15, 2010
Jesse Morehouse
Jesse Morehouse   CO
The rap anchor has been replaced. Two 3/8 by 3 3/4 inchers w/chain. Didn't include the "better" bolt from the old anchor as there was no way of guessing how deep it actually was seated. A good excuse to hide in the shade instead of man up and go climb something in the sun....

A few thoughts on the route - I'm not as comfortable with my manhood as Alan, so I'll stick to the 9+ rating on the topo with the caveat that if you don't know what an old school 9+ means then you better come with your game face on!

Did I say awesome? Maybe better than awesome is more accurate. Especially P2. Can't say enough good stuff about it!

Wally's gear list above seems pretty good, but I also brought, and both me and my partner used, nuts and even, gasp, a hex on both pitches.

Belay at the end of P2 sitting on the chockstone off a gear anchor if you are a lazy bastard like me or just don't like standing on a slab in the sun in climbing shoes forever. Lots of anchor options.

GREAT SHADE ROUTE!!! Late June and it was in the shade till early afternoon.

Finally, I'd bring a 70m or two 60m for the rap. It seems you *can* reach the ground w/a single 60m but you are in for a pendulum from hell if you blow it.

If all you have is one 60m, you can rap straight down from the rap station 40 feet to the spruce in the crack and from there you can easily reach the ground with plenty of rope to spare, but it is a bit of a hassle. Jun 21, 2010
  5.9 PG13
  5.9 PG13
Save your #4 cams for the upper section on P2, otherwise you'll be running it out about 40 feet. Nov 9, 2010
Colorado Springs, CO
jmeizis   Colorado Springs, CO
Although it looks like you could combine pitches from the ground, don't try it. Both pitches are a lot longer than they look from the ground. The first pitch is super fun with a bit of an awkward finish.

Bring a #4 for the second pitch, and save your #3s for later in the pitch. I didn't bring a #4 and placed my #3 too early. After running it out for about 40 feet, I placed an under cammed #2 (the biggest piece I had left and ran it out another 20 feet or so till I got good gear near the anchors. That's what I get for not planning more carefully. Jan 6, 2011