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Routes in Penitente - Inner Canyon

10,000 Maniacs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
7/11 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Virgin No More S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Air Jordan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Anatomy 101 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Animosity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apes in Estrus S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
B1 or V5 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bad Rap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Banana Slugs in Heat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Jesus S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Sheets of Rain S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Breakdown Dead Ahead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brown Sugar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bullet the Blue Sky S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Candy Apple Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Children Of A Lesser Grade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Colville Express S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Concupiscent Curds S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dazed and Confuzed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog's Delight S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Dedo Es la Llave S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forever Young S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freddy's Nightmare S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Friday the 13th S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Handle with Care T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harvey's Wallbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Over Heals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hip Hop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
How The West Was Won S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Huecos Rancheros S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Innocent Mission S V5 6C
Intimidator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jabba the Hut S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jack and Diane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jewel Of The Mild S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Josie's S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Morada S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ms. Cool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Intent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Sweat, No Vapor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not My Cross To Bear S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nueve a Seis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omnipenitent S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ordinary People S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Passion Play S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pumping Huecos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ranck E S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Santa Cruz T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schizoid Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shady Lady S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shear Strength S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sheer Lunacy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sister of Mercy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Soul Boy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tanks for the Hueco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tao of Gymnastic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
True Penitence T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unbound S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown (5.6 ramp) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.10d S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unrepenitente S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vapor Trails S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Doug Ranck
Page Views: 1,955 total, 11/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 5, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 Details

Description

Huecos Rancheros is immediately left of Pumping Huecos (which in turn is the right-most bolted line on the Hueco Wall). Supposedly there is a 5.8 (Hueco Mania) to the left of this route but before Nueve a Seis, but I couldn't find it. The climbing is good, but not quite as good as Pumping Huecos or the fun roof moves of the climbs to the left.

Protection

1/2 dozen bolts or so + anchors.

Photos

AndyMac
Center, CO
AndyMac   Center, CO
We had a significant discussion about the routes on the Hueco Wall. I believe Hueco Mania and Huecos Rancheros are almost the same route. I know 5.8 to 5.10c but there are truly only 5 bolted routes on this wall and 6 get listed in the guide book (Bob d'Antonio). My take on the routes from left to right is:
El Dedo Es La Llave (5.10)
Ranck E (5.10b or -)
Nueve a Seis (5.9 or 9+)
Hueco Mania (5.8)(variation on huecos just left of Rancheros)
Huecos Rancheros (5.10c if you avoid Hueco Mania)
Pumping Huecos (5.11)

My 2 cents after wondering which route was which w/ no photos/topos in the guidebook.
Andy Mar 29, 2008
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Fun Climb and rewarding view of the valley from the top. Slightly pumpy climb on sharp rock. The question is not where are the holds but more of which holds work for you? I agree with Brenda. We could not find the 6th climb on this wall. Thinking that pumping Huecos is the next left climb but MP says it is Nueve. Can someone confirm this?

Best to rap down. Sep 18, 2006
Brenda Leach
Sandy, Utah
Brenda Leach   Sandy, Utah
D'Antonio's book mentions 6 bolted routes on the Hueco Wall, but we could only find 5. He rates Pumping Huecos as a 5.11 and climbingboulder.com rates it as a 5.11a. There's no way the climb that we were on is a 5.11a. It felt more a like a one-move 5.10b/c as Shad had mentioned. The climb just to the left of where we were climbing felt like a 5.8/5.9 and we figured that was Hueco Mania. So, we concluded that Pumping Huecos must have been farther to the right and we just didn't see it. Maybe D'Antonio or Ranck could clear this up one of these days as they did the first ascents on the Hueco Wall. Oct 3, 2004
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
  5.9
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
  5.9
I think Christa is actually climbing Pumping Hueco's in the photo below... Sep 23, 2004
shad O'Neel
  5.9+
shad O'Neel  
  5.9+
Easy 5.10 climbing, one move wonder but damn fine huecos. Sep 9, 2004