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Ivory Tower

5.11a, Sport, 80 ft,  Avg: 2.4 from 75 votes
FA: Richard Wright and Bernard Plessier
Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mtn Park > Nappy Dugout

Description

Climbing commences here following nine clips up a steep gray-streaked "slab" that is the Ivory Tower and terminates atop another pedestal with just enough room for you (and perhaps one small farm animal) to stand, relax, enjoy the view and drop your rope into the lowering station.

This stellar climb has two places where chalked holds lead you leftward away from the bolts, then bring you back right into the bolt line. It seems the first of the two wanderings was unnecessary as a brief, but perhaps cryptic, upward sequence of tugs did not seem overly difficult and made wandering unnecessary. However, the uppermost wander seems necessary to keep the grade 11a. Have fun and wander or be direct - whichever your style!

Lcoation

From a large parking area nearest the southernmost sign for the Ice Caves (this parking area is on the west side of the road, just north of a small bridge, and is marked by one of several Jackie's Portable toilets conveniently located in The Canyon - thank you, Jackie!), hike east for ~15 seconds until you reach the Nappy Dugout, then head south for ~30 seconds until the trail leads up a small (but still too large) hill. On the wall atop this hill are the two Rifle classics, PMS and PMT. Approximately 20 feet north of these climbs is a large grayish to ivory colored pedestal with a top big enough to comfortably sit you, a belayer, and a couple medium-size farm animals.

Protection

9 quickdraws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route.
[Hide Photo] Route.
The route taken from the bridge between the Wasteland parking and Arsenal.
[Hide Photo] The route taken from the bridge between the Wasteland parking and Arsenal.
Whew, here's me posting a picture of me??  Sorry about that.  But no one had put up a pic of Ivory Tower - it's an alright climb for the grade.  I agree that the route seems to take two jaunts out left about two-thirds of the way up - I went direct & that's not a fun substitute for the second leftward jaunt - the feet are smears & hands are either forced to match on a sloping plate or crimp on next-to-nothing - very tenuous purchase.  It's fun when you're done.  Thanks to Neil Berget for the photo & the belay.  Talented fellow - has 3 arms.  ;)
[Hide Photo] Whew, here's me posting a picture of me?? Sorry about that. But no one had put up a pic of Ivory Tower - it's an alright climb for the grade. I agree that the route seems to take two jaunts out…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] First two bolts are a bit sketchy but the climbing is moderate. Anchors are unnecessarily placed far enough to the right to allow your rope to saw on the huge blocky ledge. Going straight up at crux makes the route harder than 11a probably. Higher it is almost mandatory to go way left. All told, it's great rock with a mediocre route that features less than stellar bolt and anchor locations. Jul 17, 2006
[Hide Comment] Gotta be 11b+. This line is sick, but is deceiving. Work the moves after the first small roof, then there are some really touchy crimps. Once you have it dialed, then it goes, but take your time!
Really fun, and awesome view from the top :) Apr 20, 2007
[Hide Comment] Wandering left down low avoids the crux sequence of this route. Much better to climb as directly as possible, until the end where the juggy, right-trending crack seems necessary. Classic route! May 28, 2007
[Hide Comment] In July of 2013, I replaced the first two 'manky' bolts. The anchor is also new hardware and has been moved approximately 5 feet left to avoid rope dragging over sharp, blocky edges. Thanks to ASCA replacement hardware. Jun 27, 2014