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Routes in Petit Bastille

Bricklayer's Spite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Eyes to See T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plankton Stew T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scimitar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sourpuss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Two-Tone Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Harrison and Stuberg
Page Views: 98 total, 1/month
Shared By: pete cogan on May 30, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The Petit Bastille, Rossiter: "this is the long, low ridge, just south of the old railroad cut/Fowler Trail, behind The Bastille." Stand in front of the Lori J Biehler bench and look East at the Petit Bastille. From the highest point, you'll see 2 obvious lines, one on the left side and one on the right. The line on the right is Two-Tone Dihedral.

Climb the right-facing dihedral, going left over the roof.

It has good pro, some loose rock, so keep your belayer off to one side, and it is overall a fun, continuous line. I'm surprised it hasn't been written up.

Descent: do an easy walkoff to the east down the scree.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 Camalot using your bigger pieces for anchor. Brown tri-cam was good at the anchors, too.

Photos

Mathias
Loveland, CO
Mathias   Loveland, CO
It's almost 12 years after this route description was submitted to MP.

The pro is no longer good. I placed four pieces (none in the roof crack, though I could have if I'd wanted to fiddle around and get pumped). All those placements were hard found, and at least two of them were marginal, in my eyes. I don't feel experienced enough to say what protection rating a route should get, but if this is PG-13, maybe I should take another look at sport climbing. Apr 11, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
I did not think this was bad, but a new 5.8 leader might not like it very much. The difficult sections had good pro, but the pro on some of the easier sections was questionable. There is some loose rock on this, but if you test your holds, it is avoidable. Sep 28, 2012
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8
...I thought this was pretty bad. There is NOT good pro for the first third of the dihedral. A doubtful nut protects the first move off the ledge, but that move is not too hard. Then no gear at all for about 10'. Then some fair cams in a rotten horizontal on the left. A couple more moves to good gear. Coupled with that, most of the positive holds are on the red rock on the left wall and are of dubious quality. At the top I went right, avoiding more loose-looking rock, glad to get out of the red zone. I was self-belaying, so that may have contributed to the bad vibes. On TR, cleaning the pitch, I had a bit more fun. Oct 19, 2004