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Fringe Dweller

5.10b/c, Trad, Sport, TR, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 54 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Monkey Skull
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This is the line of bolts shown on the Monkey Skull overview photo as route #5. Begin slightly lower than the start of Casual Corner, then cross over that route and continue up the face staying left of the arete. There are some thin face moves that may have you climbing more horizontal (I am not sure exactly what that means anyway, try it), head up and finish with a bomber hand traverse and solid smearing to a mantle up onto the ledge.


Bolted, yet the Hubbel guidebook suggests #0 or #1 TCU as additional gear. It can be TR'ed from the slings on the tree.

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The route.
[Hide Photo] The route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Ah horizontal, figured out perhaps. At the crux, there are at least 2 ways to go. Mantle up without much for hands, clip, reach R with the foot, then reach further R with the R hand to a jug, but then you are too horizontal for the feet. Swing R and then up the arete. Also, you can do this moving to the arete earlier, then reach L for the clip.

Gear, a small wire before the 1st bolt, a green & then yellow Alien above the last bolt can make this sewn up. Jun 17, 2003
Jason Haas
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] I'm almost inclined to rate this thing 5.9, but it's funny to see people arguing that Upside the Cranium is 5.10a or 5.10c or whatever. I thought Upside was way harder than this casual thing, not even comparable let alone easier than this. Just my two cents anyway. Nov 20, 2007
Will Shiverick
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] I agree Upside is way harder, but this one still feels 10ish. Its a fun start if you chimney up to the left instead starting like Casual Corner. May 20, 2009
Curt Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] It is a fairly easy 10, but I felt the crux at the 4th? bolt could definitely be c for a couple of moves. For those of you that care... we put in a Zero cam to protect the start, orange TCU to get to the 1st bolt, and yellow TCU at the top. Oct 4, 2009
Eliot Augusto
Lafayette, CO
[Hide Comment] Stellar hand traverse once you get to the flake. Best part of the route. Jun 22, 2014
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
[Hide Comment] Midway up w/bolt at your face, there is a step right with only crappy sidepulls and a big stem out right to foot pocket, that was 10b/c for me, maybe moving right before this would be easier?
Before stepping right, I did step up, and I'm glad I didn't deadpoint what looked to be a hold above the bolt, I'm glad I didn't, since it turned out to be a sloper. Nov 13, 2016