Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Roger Briggs, Brian Kew, Steve Kentz, 1971
Page Views: 2,036 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

22 Opinions

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This route would be a classic if it were: A) cleaner, B) on Castle Rock, just 50 meters away. This climb would easily qualify for 3 stars if it were not for the guano on the bottom end of it. (Note - as of 2012, it HAS cleaned up nicely)

Approach Broken Rock by parking at Castle Rock and going to the Country Club Crack area. Walk across the little bridge to Broken Rock and go then 50 feet up the hill to the right. You will see an obvious pair of super-steep twin cracks that reach a bomb-bay chimney and then another hand crack. This route is obvious and has a 2-bolt anchor fixed biners.

Tape up. Now climb the twin cracks via hand jams and stems to a tight-hands and fingerlock crux (powerful, and reachy if you are short). You can get the crux done either with brains or biceps, but be sure you have to have a lot of one or the other--it's a tricky sequence that you can power through if necessary, but beautiful if done correctly. Think footwork. This feels like a complex and gymnastic 5.10c, or a brutally muscular and insecure 5.11. Reach the anchors and rap or lower off after 60' of climbing. If you lower off, you'll be quite some distance from the start, so I'd guess that cleaning on second would be hard.


Cams from 1" to 3.5" and a few stoppers. Double 2s - 3s might help if you like to place a lot.


This climb is another victim of change in the CB/MP star system. Both of the previous posters' ratings were provided under the old system when a 2* single pitch meant "great". This pitch is quite fun and memorable. The only thing keeping it from classic status is its brevity. Jun 16, 2007
Lenore Sparks
Dolores, CO
Lenore Sparks   Dolores, CO
This is one of the best climbs of the grade in Boulder Canyon. It has it all. Rad chimney. Head jam optional. Fingers, hands, tight hands, stemming.... Aug 25, 2008
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
More of a boulder problem than the gill crack, the business is followed by 20 feet of 5.4. Jun 17, 2009
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
Fun Climb. I was leading and I fell turning the first roof with a cam at about my waist and another right below my feet. The clip in point on the back of my climbing shoe clipped into the quickdraw on the cam at my feet and flipped me over.

It's pretty hard to extricate yourself while hanging from your heel. May 1, 2011

Damn, I thought that kind of stuff only happened to me.... May 1, 2011
Kevin P
Kevin P   Loveland
The exit is pretty wild. Sep 1, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
The exit is pretty wild in that it involves a strange technique. It is easier than the crux cracks below. The route is fun, but the hard part is short. Apr 6, 2015
The Blueprint Part Dank
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
How did I spend so much time at Castle Rock over the last couple of years without getting on this? A mystery to be sure, but this climb is just pure fun. A combination of varied crack technique with intricate, sequence-based footwork through an overhang, it's one of those sequences that seems like such a puzzle that it's hard to believe it wasn't created by a route-setter at the Spot.

Heads up, after the crux I got up into the chimney and set loose a swarm of weird bugs. A sunny winter day after the frost/cold has thinned the bug population would be a more optimal time to hop on. Nov 2, 2015