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Routes in Second Buttress

Avalon Rising T,S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Classic Finger Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elephantiasis T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Pine Tree Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tough Situation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: D. Hare & D. Micheal, 1980
Page Views: 120 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 16, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route starts low left on Elephant #2. Scrtamble up between Elephant #1 nad #2, keeping an eye to the right for a huge hanging flake with a finger-to-hand crack traversing out right under it and then upward. This is about 10' up the route.Pitch 1: Set a belay below and then tackle this flake. Pulling past it is the P1 crux at 5.9+, then head up descent cracks toward the bottom of the routes Tough Situation and Classic Finger Crack. The climbing eases for a while.Pitch #2: According to the guidebook we used, you climb a thin crack up the left edge of the face above, on the buttress face left of the afformentioned two neighboring routes. There is no crack there, however. JUST BARELY left of these is a rusted total crap bolt that is very hard just to get to and dangerous, it joins Tough Situation after perhaps 25'. Around the corner to the left there is a junk-filled crack that looks pretty easy and also seems unlikely to be the route.After playing around on trying to figure out the hard-looking seam above the bolt just right of Tough Situation, I decided to do Tough Situation and set a TR for the line aside of it. The face past the bolt goes squarely at 5.11, at least 5.11c if you ask me, but I have not done enough trad routes at that grade in BC to distinguish the grades finely. A foothold (a generous name for what I was standing on) snapped off while I was on it, and I must have taken 3 falls on TR. Any one of which would have mangled me on lead if the bolt popped. This pitch felt LOADS harder than What's Up (5.10d) or Left Wing (5.10c) which I on-sighted wet. This felt somewhere between FM (5.11c), but less secure, or Avalon Rising (12b/c).

If you have info about this route or how such a massive misgrade might have occurred, please post relivant info.

Protection

For the first pitch, a set of stoppers and rack of cams from TCU-hand sized + a few tricams if you like them. For the second pitch, if I read the route right, one horrible rusted bolt with aspinner hanger. It couldn't prevent a bad fall even if it held, then at best a 1/2 burried blindly placed RP in a sometimes wet, bad seam. TR the second pitch or get hurt.

Photos

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I replaced the 1/4" Rawl buttonhead compression bolt on the second pitch with a 3/8" SS Rawl 5-piece bolt.

The materials for this work were provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Sep 30, 2005
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
 
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
 
First pitch is a wonderful ego-boost. Of course, that was since i went into it thinking it was 5.10x. The BC Guide was a little tricky with the description. I should have relied on the trusty-CB.com guide instead! Place bomber green aliens in the crack (which is much bigger than one is led to think from the descriptions) at the lip of the roof, layback to your left, feet high AND in the crack below and turn it. Lots easier than I thought. GREAT gear. If you want to push into the grade, do it here. Clean-ish falls, nice nuts just after the roof, and a REALLY short crux. Fun fun fun. (Don't do the second pitch; do Tough Situation instead).

~Wm Oct 3, 2004