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Routes in Left Infirmary Slab

Hamburger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knuckle Sandwich S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wax 'n Wane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Juth/Marshall Massaro
Page Views: 384 total · 2/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on Apr 23, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

A [prominent] roof left of left Infirmary Slab [visible] from the road. Climb easy slabs up to a belay below the crack. The slabs with the old bolt directly below are quite run out. It's easier to use the wide groove to the right.

Jam the overhanging crack (15 degree?) up to another easy slab and a small tree. Exit left. The crack is probably only 15' long, but it's fun if you are there. Be careful using the flake wedged in the crack at the lip.

Protection

The first "pitch" is lower 5th class slab. A few medium cams and nuts work well for the belay below the crack. Same pro for the crack.

Photos

Kevin P
Loveland
Kevin P   Loveland
Hard 10, lol. No way. My two cents, mid to hard 11. Not sure how a very overhanging off-fingers crack is anywhere near 10. I feel I can usually scratch my way up easy 11, and I could only make a few moves on this thing. Maybe I missed something. Super fun though if you like a good beating. Jan 29, 2017
Umph!  
Went up today for some of the easy slab climbs and led the crack "around the corner", next to Dipshit Boss and Wax-n-Wane - felt like a fun 5.10 with 2 or 3 very solid hand jams. The roof that you're speaking of (did it as well) felt like 5.11, but I think the slab is harder than easy 5th class (there is one bolt in the center that is quite a RO to reach from the ground) -I'd say 5.7, maybe harder at the small roof/ledge below the bolt. . . but then, I also think that the face climb with the single bolt, between Dipshit and Wax is 5.9 slab. Fun place to go play with begin/inter. climbers, as there are some good, tricky advanced climbs as well. Nov 13, 2005
Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.10d
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.10d
Since you are probably the only other people on the planet to climb this, you and I are likely the concensus. I thought hard 5.10 maybe 11-? Hard to tell for something so short. Did you climb the other little crack around the corner to the right.? Another fun little thing if you are actually there. Apr 20, 2005
spanky  
i did this roof crack with [Marc Hemmes] about two years ago and i think we decided on a rating of "hard" 10+. don't know if [Marc] or i were the party mentioned to have climbed this and given it the consensus rating of 10d. anyway, it's pretty fun and feels longer than it actually is. cool moves exiting the roof onto the slab. Apr 10, 2005
Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.10d
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.10d
According to another group who has recently done the climb, the concensus is .10d. May 22, 2003