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Routes in Fourth Flatiron

Arc de Triumph S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
East Face, Extra Credit Summit T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
East Face, North Side T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
East Face, South Side T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Face/4th Flatiron T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Excellent Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jester T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Lower South-East Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
No Balls At All V1 5
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,156 total, 7/month
Shared By: George Bell on May 6, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a significant variation to the regular East Face route that nets you a spectacular and seldom visited summit. The "Extra Credit Summit" is the southernmost summit of the second piece of the Fourth Flatiron, is is 100 feet south of and lower than Green Mountain Pinnacle.

On the Regular East Face route (second piece), as you enter the hanging garden, look left for a huge flake that you can (barely) squeeze behind. This spot is where the gully becomes hiking territory and then threads into a narrow chimney, and also is where the gully bends right. To squeeze behind the flake we had to take our packs off. Then follow an easy ledge out towards the east face and set a belay on a large boulder.

Climb out on the east face and head more or less straight up the face. It's easy slab climbing, but there are only 3-4 pro placements in 165 feet. At 165 feet you reach the top, but there are no anchors there. Continue 20 more feet until you reach the rappel anchor, which is a huge horn wrapped with a 20' piece of sling. You can also place a bomber #3 Camalot here for backup (when belaying).

Rap west from the sling(s). This rappel is quite awkward to start and overhanging. With a 50m rope, you can't reach the ground and will have to traverse into the deep crack to your north. A 60m route would probably make it to the ground.

The end of the 25m rappel is a deep notch separating the Extra Credit Summit from Green Mountain Pinnacle. If you do the regular East Face route you go through this notch so you rejoin this route here.

Protection

Light Flatiron rack, including a #3 Camalot. You will need a 20' piece of cord if the rap sling is missing.

Photos

Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
On top of this route is a fixed line and sling. The fixed line leads down over the lip of the overhang to the north, and then ends. I'd guess that a soloist put this up so that they can descend the line to some jugs and continue downclimbing. However, I think fixing a 20 foot dynamic line, that rubs over a bunch of edges, and has no knot in the end, into space is incredibly dangerous. Yer actually gonna die.

I'm not local, so I didn't remove it. Someone should chop this bullshit, or the person who put it up should replace it with a significantly longer static line. Also knot the end while you're at it.

Eli Jul 31, 2016