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Psycho Hose Beast

5.11b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2 from 53 votes
FA: K. Trout, 1992
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Monkey House
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Description

This is a nice little line on the left third of the Wall of the Nineties just right of Punishment for Shoplifting (PFS). It feels less difficult than PFS once you know where the holds are. There is an interesting rest ledge below the top/crux. 5.11a/b is the given rating from Mark's guide and, for Clear Creek, it feels right if you try to onsight. It is probably 5.9 for those Eldo-wizards. I wonder why the name....

Ignore this info if you want an onsight flash:

Funky move between bolts 1 & 2. Decent upper face moves. Rest ledge reminiscent of the rest in that video (Masters of Stone?) of Piana on a climb at Hueco. Weird crux at 10th bolt. Such a good rest but a bit awkward to move past. Hard to see from below the overhang. To get out and beyond the roof, reach up for a left side pinch, get feet up, then long reach to a flat edge. Trust it....

Protection

10 QDs + slings for the anchors. Per Robyn Van Zile: there are rings at the top now.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Heading toward the crux on Psycho Hose Beast.
[Hide Photo] Heading toward the crux on Psycho Hose Beast.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeffrey Arthur
Westminster, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I stayed away from this for sometime because of the lack of guidebook and partner recommendations. I finally caved in yesterday and gave it a shot. This climb was much better than I anticipated with brilliant moves throughout the entire second half of the climb. The roof crux is just awesome. It's intimidating getting out from below the overhang, but the holds are there. Although The Reward is my favorite this is just as good as the other climbs on the righthand side of The Monkey House. Jun 28, 2008
Andy Bandos
CO
5.11b
[Hide Comment] Unfortunately it's very dirty on first third of climb. The second third is very fun moves through some horizontal edges. The roof is a very strenuous crank, but the moves are fun. Get on it if it's dry! Aug 3, 2016
[Hide Comment] "It is probably 5.9 for those Eldo-wizards."

I'd love it if the Eldo-wizard who posted this route would show me the 5.9 way to do the crux. Sep 10, 2019
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] FWIW, I'm not an Eldo wizard, but this felt oddly similar to some 5.9 deep in my data banks from Eldo, maybe something near Vertigo like Mickey Mouse Nailup? Sep 12, 2019
Robyn Van Zile
Denver, CO.
 
[Hide Comment] Still a bit chossy - also thought pulling through the roof was very heady, much harder than Curvaceous across the way. Mar 28, 2022