The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation Bumbling Stock Evil Area Ghost Crag Highlander Skinny Legs Stumbling Block Tetanus Garden Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
This is a nice little line on the left third of the Wall of the Nineties just right of Punishment for Shoplifting (PFS). It feels less difficult than PFS once you know where the holds are. There is an interesting rest ledge below the top/crux. 5.11a/b is the given rating from Mark's guide and, for Clear Creek, it feels right if you try to onsight. It is probably 5.9 for those Eldo-wizards. I wonder why the name....
Ignore this info if you want an onsight flash:
Funky move between bolts 1 & 2. Decent upper face moves. Rest ledge reminiscent of the rest in that video (Masters of Stone?) of Piana on a climb at Hueco. Weird crux at 10th bolt. Such a good rest but a bit awkward to move past. Hard to see from below the overhang. To get out and beyond the roof, reach up for a left side pinch, get feet up, then long reach to a flat edge. Trust it....
Protection
10 QDs + slings for the anchors. Per Robyn Van Zile: there are rings at the top now.
[Hide Comment] I stayed away from this for sometime because of the lack of guidebook and partner recommendations. I finally caved in yesterday and gave it a shot. This climb was much better than I anticipated with brilliant moves throughout the entire second half of the climb. The roof crux is just awesome. It's intimidating getting out from below the overhang, but the holds are there. Although The Reward is my favorite this is just as good as the other climbs on the righthand side of The Monkey House.
Jun 28, 2008
[Hide Comment] Unfortunately it's very dirty on first third of climb. The second third is very fun moves through some horizontal edges. The roof is a very strenuous crank, but the moves are fun. Get on it if it's dry!
Aug 3, 2016
[Hide Comment] FWIW, I'm not an Eldo wizard, but this felt oddly similar to some 5.9 deep in my data banks from Eldo, maybe something near Vertigo like Mickey Mouse Nailup?
Sep 12, 2019
Westminster, CO
CO
I'd love it if the Eldo-wizard who posted this route would show me the 5.9 way to do the crux. Sep 10, 2019
Westminster, Colorado
Denver, CO.