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Verve

5.13c, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 11 votes
FA: Christian Griffith, 1987
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Bell Buttress M… > Bell Buttress - Main…
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Description

One of Christian Griffith's exceptional sport climbs put up in the late '80s after CG's return from six months in France. CG's "Big-Three" (Paris Girl, Desdichado, and Verve) were much sought after achievements for any aspiring sport climbing hardman (or woman) and some of the hardest routes in the U.S. at the time. A solid 5.13 on perfect granite with interesting moves and some of the best positioning in Boulder Canyon, this route is essentially two hard V6/V7 boulder problems with a quick shake in between them. The coveted first ascent was done by Christian with other notable Boulder rock stars of the day, e.g. Dale Goddard, involved in the race for the FA. The route is notable also as it became the inspiration for the name of CG's climbing clothing company, which went on to define sport climbing apparel functional-style in the '90s.

The first crux is right off the deck. With a right foot, heel hook, grab the right hand "shredder" hold (very painful and small), work your left foot up the ramp and start working up the arete with the left. After getting the highest left purchase possible on the arete make a big crank move to a right hand, 4 finger pocket.

The second crux is a long reach to a modified hold. The chiseled/drilled hold makes the "mega reach" move (second crux) much easier and it makes it possible to match and switch hands for a quick shake. This move is VERY wing-span dependent and is harder for those not endowed with a lot of height and a huge ape index.

The route quickly slabs out over the top and the anchor is a long way back. Be careful when top-roping or lowering as the anchor position will ensure that your rope gets shredded.

Protection

4 QDs + anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Christian Griffith working Verve. photo: Bob Horan Collection.
[Hide Photo] Christian Griffith working Verve. photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Isabelle Faus trying to ascend Verve.
[Hide Photo] Isabelle Faus trying to ascend Verve.
Verve in the sun is nearly impassable.
[Hide Photo] Verve in the sun is nearly impassable.
CG on Verve.
[Hide Photo] CG on Verve.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13c
[Hide Comment] This route should be registered as a modified route. The crux sequence involves a drilled out edge on the arete. May 8, 2003
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] I replaced the 4 bolts on Verve today with Roy Barnes. 3 of the bolts were 20+ year-old Mammut Ring bolts, and the 4th bolt was an 8mm Allen Mammut bolt (scary condition). All old holes were patched. The new hardware is 1/2" x 2.75" stainless Powers bolts with Petzl hangers. Special thanks to Matt Samet (Climbing Magazine) and the ARI for supplying the hardware! Jul 15, 2008
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
[Hide Comment] Colin, FYI, "Sven" is a legendary troll from the climbingboulder.com days. I'm pretty sure he's not a real person, and his story is a fabrication, though it wouldn't be too surprising these days if someone were to flash a route like this.

PS, your comments are very much appreciated! Keep 'em coming. Dec 13, 2009
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] Sven was a troll, but I remember him being a hilarious one! Dec 14, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
[Hide Comment] A full explanation of the "Four-Plan" is here mountainproject.com/v/color…. (read through all the comments) Dec 19, 2009
Tank Evans
  5.13c
[Hide Comment] Really great route, especially for Boulder Canyon. Pay the price of admission and bear-down on those razors to start and then enjoy some of the best movement in Bo Can. Also, non-reachy beta exists for the upper sequence. It is a shame that the edge on the arete up high is drilled because the route would certainly still go without it, and probably only a letter grade harder. Mar 19, 2012
[Hide Comment] Is there anyone who would be willing to share some detailed beta for the route? Nov 7, 2020