Type: TR, Boulder, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,178 total · 21/month
Shared By: jonah on Apr 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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On the northwest corner of Beer Barrel rock. Grab the big jug rail, step your feet high, and huck for the broken/slopey jug below the lip. A good edge for your left hand helps pull you over the top. Doing it without a rope seems a little on the burly side.

This seemed like a cool addition to the site, especially after seeing Paul Glover do it ropeless in Front Range Freaks. Anyone know if this has been flashed and by whom? Also, who did the FA?


One nice bolt and a rusty old one with a leeper hanger next to it.


Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
Bob Williams, formerly known in Boulder climbing circles as "The Lunger" did it on a rope for a Boulder climbing video in the 70s or early 80s. I saw it once at a fundraiser for Eldo. The name of the video escapes me now, but someone will know it.

Mike Auldridge and Brian Capps worked it out in 2000 using some ridiculous number of crashpads, like 12 or 18 or something like that. It was in the R & I article on Boulder if you're interested.

As for flashing it, I heard someone came down from the Fort and did exactly that. I wasn't there, but certainly would have like to have seen it. Apr 24, 2003
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
On second thought, I think Neal Kaptain (and not BW) did this on video way back when. Not sure he was first, but it was definitely on a rope. Apr 25, 2003
Disclaimer: Sorry for the spray you are about to read - this is for a bet.

I did it 2nd try DESROSSIERS!!! Time for burritos and margaritas, sucker!!(Yes, I used a toprope. I am a pussy.) Jun 22, 2003
Colin Lantz
Nederland, CO
Colin Lantz   Nederland, CO
FA 1972 by Bob Williams - done both statically (Syncromesh) and dynamically (Dynamesh). B.H. 1989 refers to this old static variation using a "thin edge layaway". B.H. 1995 comments "this layaway has now broken". B.H. 2000 and P.B. 1999 make no mention at all of this route on the Beer Barrel Rock. The "modern" static version uses what was once only a foothold in the middle of the face with the right hand. Thrutch up the arĂȘte with the left until you can secure an incut edge. Now grab the bucket that is the hold that is dyno'd to in the dynamic version. Static version is probably V5 - with several extra V grades for scare factor, especially if done without pads or spotters! Apr 3, 2004
Colin Lantz
Nederland, CO
Colin Lantz   Nederland, CO
For me, that video footage of Double Clutch in "On the Rocks" was extremely motivating. The first time I came out to Boulder to visit (1984?) I went directly to Flagstaff and tried it on a top rope, and failed miserably. I went out and got some ski poles and leg weights so I could train aerobically just like Tony Yaniro did in the video. I'll never forget the footage of Tony doing Equinox in J-Tree in a windstorm. Epic! Apr 3, 2004
Longmont, CO
JVonD   Longmont, CO
Skyler Weekes dyno of Double Clutch on Flagstaff Mountain in Boulder, Colorado.
youtube.com/watch?v=mQLfbFc… Mar 2, 2010