Kidnapper Van
5.11+,
Trad, Alpine, 770 ft (233 m), 4 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
FA: Jason Seaver and Justin DuBois
Colorado
> Alpine Rock
> RMNP - Rock
> Glacier Gorge
> Shameless Tower
Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31.
Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP
website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures
website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted
here.
Description
This route follows a line up the very distinct righthand gendarme on the Arrowhead/McHenry's ridge "the Shameless Tower". It connects crack systems along the right side of this pronounced pillar in four full pitches.
To start look for a large, worm-shaped pillar at the start of pitch two, about 250 feet above the grassy ledges/slabs. Start down and right of this pillar on a ledge 20' below a right facing corner with a left-angling splitter on it's right wall. A spot of fifth class gets you to this ledge, coming in from the right.
Another landmark is the beautiful handcrack at the end of the second pitch that splits an obvious red wall.
To descend, walk right (east) a few hundred feet to the lowest point of the ridge, and do three rappels on fixed anchors with two ropes.
1. Climb the angling splitter to a pair of short handcracks, that lead to a detached spike. Angle left, then right on moderate terrain to a belay below a tight, left-facing corner (the left side of the worm shaped pillar). 180'.
2. Climb up this corner (10-), to some wedged blocks. Undercling [left] (10-). Head up to a right arching flake. Climb the flake (thin 10-) to another left-facing dihedral. Up this corner with brilliant exit moves out onto the face below the splitter handcrack. Climb the handcrack and belay just as your partner is about to start climbing. 190'.
3. Go up a ramp on the left, up into a corner system (5.8) and follow this for thirty feet. Step right at an obvious, thin, right-arching flake. Layback the flake (pumpy 10+) to a sloping, awkward ledge. Balance right and belay. 170'.
4. Climb a short corner and do a weird mantle onto a grassy ledge. The crux corner starts off this ledge. Climb the corner and obvious, crack system above with very sustained stemming and jamming (11+) 190'. Belay at a small ledge, and do a short easy pitch to the abrupt summit.
Protection
Rack to 4 inches. Long pitches may require a double set of cams, RPs. 60 meter rope (two for the rappels).
Estes Park
Estes Park
Where are all the Glacier Gorge faithful? Jul 16, 2010
Boulder, CO
The belays are really nice on this route, with stunning views as you look across at the main Arrowhead wall, Spearhead, Long's, etc. The bottom wanders a bit. The cruxes protect well and are interesting. Nothing ever felt harder than 5.11. With so little traffic, lichens are covering many of the holds and cracks -- it's not dirty exactly, but it feels a little like you're on a new route. Jul 10, 2017