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Routes in The Needle

Bustin' Move S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Damage Done, The S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Descent Route T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R
Momentary Lapse of Ethics S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Needle TR wall aka Uphill Slab TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
North Lieback T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
South Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suburban Hangover S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Temple of the Dog S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Stuemke and Hurst, 1990
Page Views: 116 total, 1/month
Shared By: Brian Faulkner on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is another classic route on The Needle that can be lead or top roped. The TR is the same approach as all the top ropes (up the 5th class ramp). Rap off those anchors below Damage Done, throw it toward Lake Estes side. Again, rappelling to the next anchors can create rope drag when trying to pull it, so be carefull not to get stuck. The actual bottom part of the climb is seems like hard 10 moves. You pull over a bulge on some crimpy holds, the climb lets up for about 10 feet and then you get to the cruxy section, which the angle kicks back a little and then kind of bulges out. If you move to the left, it become 5.11a, move to the right 5.11d. This will give you a good pump...watch out for the great swings you'll have if you fall off!

Protection

There are good anchors and 5 bolts. There is major rope swinging potential involved if top roping.

Photos

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Theres a variation that goes right to an alternate final bolt (painted black) and then right to the anchors on the next route over (Temple of Dog, 5.13?) at 5.11d instead of 5.11a. Jul 4, 2008