Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Byrd, Dakers Gowans, Larry Hamilton
Page Views: 1,810 total · 9/month
Shared By: L. Hamilton on Mar 14, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

For its modest grade, this route has a surprisingly exposed "big wall" atmosphere. Snark ascends the left center of the main NE face in a direct line, ending near the summit cairn. Approach is made on a huge diagonal ledge, most easily attained at its lower right side. The route itself can be located with reference to a great left-leaning pillar or finger of rock, at least half the height of the face. The climb reaches the U-shaped ledge area at the lower right corner of this formation, and continues up in a vertical line to its right to the top of the face.

P1) Climb cracks toward the U for a ropelength, belaying below a smooth section.

P2) Follow a curving flake/crack system up the slab to the right. When it ends, move back up and left to ledges at the base of the broken, black-washed U.

P3) Ascend obvious chimneys to a large, comfortable ledge.

P4) The climb's best pitch. Ignoring less interesting alternatives to the right and left, go straight up a fantastic hand-sized crack on the face above the ledge. When it ends walk right to attain a system of steep flakes angling back up and left. Follow the flakes to a belay.

P5) Steep face climbing leads out right and up for a pitch to a broken area below the summit.

P6) An easy short lead to the top.

Protection

The FA party found good protection with a light rack of stoppers, hexes and runners. No fixed anchors were placed.

Photos