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Risky Business

5.9, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 81 votes
FA: Bob and Carrie Robertson, 2000
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Cactus Cliff > D. Cactus Cliff Right…

Description

Yet another right-facing dihedral -- this one with a straight-in hand crack, bolts on the face to the right, and varying cracks to the left.

Start between Almost French and Almost Gothic. Fire straight up the dihedral, with enjoyable stemming and jamming. Practice the mantra "pull down, not out" on the loose blocks on the left wall. The last bolt is placed on the right face, beneath a flake. Two finish options exist -- straight up the dihedral (using the wide-ish fist crack) or undercling right at the flake and power upwards (good hands, not so good feet). The flake option is more difficult, but less thuggish.

The bolts are spaced fairly wide for a sport cliff, but the solid hand jams inspire confidence.

A 5.9 variation to the route breaks left into a crack around the fourth bolt, and finishes on separate anchors on the left wall of the dihedral.

Protection

6 bolts plus anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cactus Cliff - Right (1).<br>
<br>
The Price is Right is now named Legend on the Fall.<br>
<br>
La Estacion de Shelf is now named La Temperatura de Shelf.
[Hide Photo] Cactus Cliff - Right (1). The Price is Right is now named Legend on the Fall. La Estacion de Shelf is now named La Temperatura de Shelf.
Risky Business.
[Hide Photo] Risky Business.
The bolts are a bit spaced out.
[Hide Photo] The bolts are a bit spaced out.
The route.
[Hide Photo] The route.
Starting up Risky Business.
[Hide Photo] Starting up Risky Business.
Devin ascends the lusty flanks of Risky Business for his first outdoor lead.
[Hide Photo] Devin ascends the lusty flanks of Risky Business for his first outdoor lead.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brad Short
Saudia Aurora, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] The 5.9 Left Variation to Risky Business has only 5 bolts. After forking left into the crack the options include: clipping the 5th bolt of the direct line with a long sling (a fall would result in an interesting swing), plugging a finger-sized or so cam half way up the left crack (smarter), or just running it out to the high cold shut left of the crack (burly and not so smart). Apr 21, 2003
[Hide Comment] Not to to dis Brad, but I disagree. You can still make the last clip then go left... it might require a step out on the face, but I remember it being fairly secure for the clip... and I was out of shape and scared at the time. Disclaimer... I have long arms, my girlfriend often curses bolts that I feel are reasonably placed. Fun route for people who like crack... I mean cracks... you know, crack climbing... (pregnant pause) never mind... (sigh) Aug 21, 2003
ROC
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Better than it looks I think. Anyone else notice the fossil shell on the top of the flake left of the anchors? Pretty cool. First one I've seen at Shelf. Always wondered if there were any around. Nov 26, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Carbondale
 
[Hide Comment] Did this today and didn't find any loose blocks or choss. Still be cautious though! It's actually a really fun route. Nov 30, 2013
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] There are small loose blocks wedged in the cracks on the left face. Chalk on them, so people are using them. Jan 16, 2016
Keith W
Westminster
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Decent climb with heady bolts. Wouldn't necessarily recommend this for a new 5.9 leader, especially if crack technique is weak. Well-protected at the crux, but after, you are looking at a significant runout. Loose blocks are present, but they seem pretty wedged. Dec 27, 2018