PRINT: Rock Climb Renaissance Wall, Lumpy Ridge

Renaissance Wall

5.12c, Sport, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 3.5 from 10 votes
FA: Randy Farris & Mike-'95
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Book > Renaissance Wall

Access Issue: Closure Notice Details

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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23 Details

Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)

Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.

Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!

Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:

Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock

Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.

All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.

Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Description

I do not lead 5.12c, but I have done the first pitch of this route and felt it was appropriate to post this because this wall holds supposedly the toughest crack in Colorado at 5.13d as well as other respectable routes. The route as well as the route name is called Renaissance Wall and is located just to the west of The Book. Hike to the second corredor west of the book and hike up until you see some steep sport routes on your right. The route is the last one on the right. The first pitch is a couple 5.11 moves off the ground and fun flake pulling afterwards. The second pitch is the tough sustained 5.11/5.12, and the last a 5.11 pitch.

Protection

9 or 10 quickdraws, strong fingers.

Per MauryB: as a 2 pitch route, make sure you have 15 draws + anchors. It would be unnecessary to stop and belay it separately. An 80m rope just gets you back to the P1 anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 1 traverse.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jimmie Redo
Boulder, Co

I would suggest a 70 meter rope for this route which enables you to belay the second pitch from the ground. You can lower to the first pitch anchors then again from there. Also the rock deteriorates a bit at the top of the second pitch. Third pitch therefore is not so recommended. Mar 11, 2003

Andy Donson

I got a belay from the ground and made it to the top of the 3rd with a 60m rope (after backcleaning the first pitch), but wont do it that way next time. Clipping through the tenuous crux section was dire, what with the combination of drag and rope weight. Which is a shame as doing it all in one makes for an outstanding long pitch. Mar 12, 2003

Randy Farris

This was a 2 pitch climb when I first did it. The first pitch was 5.10. The second pitch had 15 bolts and went to the top of the wall. I added the bolts after the crux so you could get down with a single 50m rope.I think the best way is to combine what people call the last 2 pitches.Maybe I should remove the rap station after the crux? Mar 18, 2003

Bob Rotert
Broomfield

5.12c

I think this climb is awesome!! Although out of character for most Lumpy ridge climbs I think it is one of the best I have done at Lumpy. Like Randy says it should be done in 2 pitches. The second pitch when done combinig what people here are calling the 2nd a 3rd pitch makes for an incredible and sustained pitch of climbing. I could barely lift the rope to clip in at the end.

It is nice to be able to get off with one rope. So, Randy I would not recommend pulling the anchors you put in. Just need to educate folks on how the first ascent was envisioned. Mar 25, 2003

MauryB
Boulder, CO

5.12c

Wow, one of the best routes of its grade in the Front Range.

Agree with the above, this is a 2 pitch route. Make sure you have 15 draws + anchors [suggested edit to route description]. The final 5.11 stretch is great climbing, but it would be silly to stop and belay it separately. A mega, 40m pitch! An 80m rope just gets you back to the P1 anchors. Jun 20, 2016

Patrick Hardy
Boulder, CO

I recommend bringing a #2 cam to place between the first and second bolt. Falling on the 5.10 sequence just before the second bolt would likely result in groundfall without. There is also a difficult, unprotected mantel just above the P1 anchor that makes belaying here a bit spicy. Jul 30, 2019