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Routes in McInnis Canyons

Cowboy Hat, The A1
Devil's Disciple I T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Devil's Disciple II T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1
Failed Exorcism Arch - The Power of Christ Compels You T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Little Bighorn A1
Phantom Spire C1+
Pitchfork Tower - From the Depths of Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Decision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Aid, 100 ft
FA: Mike Baker, Leslie Henderson
Page Views: 1,772 total · 9/month
Shared By: Troy from Tooele on Oct 5, 2002
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Stay on trails. Some areas are wilderness and cannot be bolted on. Details

Description [Edit]

This route is located up Devils Canyon. See Bjorstads book DESRT ROCK III (page 254) for the location. If you are broke, just go into a climbing shop with a pencil and paper and dictate it down out of the book. If you hike up the canyon, you'll see a thumb-like spire on the left (east) in about 40-45 minutes. There is no way to mistake this spire, as it is the only one on the left (east) side. Do NOT hump pitons up there, like the book says. I got throught the crux with medium nuts and cams. Approach the route, by hiking south then climbing up slabs, then heading back north to the saddle between the spire and the rimrock. Start on the left-most of cracks. This is the only clean dihedral there (look for scrape marks from gear). The anchor is actuall 15' below the summit. You can climb up to the summit, then "hand-over-hand rappel back to the drilled anchor via a slung hueco. You will see the faded webbing near the summit. Fun route. Check out Kit Carsons name inscribed in the saddle near the start of the climb. DO NOT BRING PITONS, save your back for more worthy sherpa outings.-tda

Protection [Edit]

Cams from blue Metolius to 3" friends. Many quickdraws/biners. A knife and some chain for the anchor.

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rmaultsby
grand junction, co
rmaultsby   grand junction, co
Really. If you climb this, bring a knife and maybe a new bolt for the anchor. Oct 30, 2011
Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
 
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction
 
I agree with a new bolt. several cracks around the right piton and it is located above an exfoliating shelf. The slung hueco was almost better in my opinion! I backed up the anchor with a piece from the bolt ladder when going for the summit moves, which are a bit spicy. Blake freed to about 80 feet until the holds disappeared. Fun tower!! Sep 27, 2015

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