PRINT: Climb Little Bighorn, Grand Junction Area

Little Bighorn

A1, Aid, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.3 from 6 votes
FA: Mike Baker, Leslie Henderson, Lindsey Archer, March 1993
Colorado > Grand Junction… > McInnis Canyons > Kodel's Canyon

Description

This spire/pinnacle/tower (whatever you want to call it) is located up Kodel's Canyon. Look in Bjorstad's DESERT ROCK III book (page 256,257) for directions. This route ascends the NORTH face of Little Bighorn. The bottom is wide, then it narrows near the top. Clip two drilled angles, then end the first pitch on a spacious ledge. The second pitch ascend a bolt ladder. These bolts could have been avoided with beaks and small blades. Above these bolts are a few spicy free moves to the summit. BRING A HANDRILL, AND PUT IN TWO MORE BOLTS FOR THE SUMMIT ANCHOR!!! You might want to bring a long sling (6') so you can drill the anchor further away from the original anchor. The original anchor consists of two drilled angles in white sandstone. There are multiple cracks around each angle. This anchor is very suspect. O.K. route. Great Location and Solitude. -tda

Protection

Bring a set of cams. Make sure you lug one #3.5 Camalot, two #4 Camalots, and one #4.5 Camalot. These large boys make life easier.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The rap off.

The bolt ladder.

Start the route up on the ledge... you can easily link both pitches and get off the thing with one 70 meter rope.

Looking up from the base.

Little Bighorn Pinnacle and Split Decision, directly behind it.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ryan Jennings

The rock around the pitons on the summit is starting to deteriorate. [Definitely] could use replacement. Also beware of the last two pins on the ladder as they are loosening. Climbed this on two hex, one nut stacks for the first 30 feet! Made it A-scary. BRING THE BIG CAMS! Also bring a new piece of paper for the summit register the [original] is full with eight or nine ascents. Fun climb in a nice canyon. Nov 7, 2005

Vic Zeilman
Gunnison

The anchor on the summit was backed up with a new bolt at some point since '05, so no need for the hand drill. I left a few extra pieces of paper in the summit register. This is a cool little tower, definitely worth checking out. To approach, park at the unmarked dirt pullout just 100 yards past King View Drive on the right, if you're heading towards the West Entrance. Take the trail through the break in the fence that's marked with a Monument sign. Follow trail K1 to K7 and enter Kodel's Canyon from there. Mar 28, 2011

rmaultsby
grand junction, co

Super sweet little tower. Good aid solo.
Beta; I used a (BD) #5, old #4, and two #4s to casually and safely get through the bottom wideness. Then it's a standard rack from there. A bit of a free move before each anchor. I got up and down from the top with a single ~65m rope. Bring some cordage for the anchor, since the tat is likely to be old. Jul 21, 2016

Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction

Free beta: the first 20 feet is easier, low angle, #6 choss (you can bypass via an easy 4th Class ledge from the right), followed by 30 feet of steep 5s (crux) then 10 feet of 4s. It narrows down hands to fingers with some rest ledges until the main ledge with 2 bolt fixed anchor. Belay or aid up 5-6 drilled angles and bolts, then prepare for some super choss 5.8 moves protected by 0.4 cam to summit. Great 2 bolt anchor in place on summit with cordelette. A single 70m got us down in single rap. A single 60m in 2 raps.

Rack: #6, 2-3 #5s, 2 #4s, single #0.3-#3 Camalot. 10 QDs/slings for the bolt ladder.

If you can climb 5s, it will feel 5.10. If not, it feels 5.12. Oct 7, 2023