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Routes in Right Side

Boulder Quartz System S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Counting Sheep T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleep Deprivation S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sominex T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tooth and Nail T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 603 total, 3/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Closed Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route shares the same start with "Counting Sheep" on the right side of the Plotinus Wall. Climb up the first 15 feet of Counting Sheep and reach "the Tooth". Clip the bolt on the left side of the tooth and handrail up on good holds. Rock over onto the slab and climb past three bolts to "the Nail". Reach the nail and continue up a finger crack (small gear) to the anchor. Almost three stars. Excellent route with a variety of moves.

Protection

Six bolts and small to medium gear will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11b
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.11b
Rock quality isn't the best - don't need any gear either - enough bolts to protect adequately. Apr 8, 2013
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
Still pretty scruffy. Not a bad climb. The 'nail' is kind of cool. Apr 17, 2012
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
This route is actually quite good, w/ a little more traffic the munge on the slab will clean up and the last few little flaky chips will get pulled off. Getting to the first bolt is easily protected w/ either small cams or wires. Jan 31, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
No really hard moves, but some insecurity and continuous difficulty lead to a pretty good pump. Not a good warm up.

Pretty good. Not as good as others at the cliff. I'd repeat others first.

Rating given with pump factor in mind. I also used more friction-moves than some other routes at the cliff. Jul 21, 2003