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No Chute aka Rip Cord

5.10a, Trad, 50 ft,  Avg: 2.9 from 39 votes
FA: Tom Bowman & Tom A.
Colorado > S Platte > Rampart Range Rd > Parachute Rock

Description

From the southeast face alcove of Parachute, this is the farthest rout to the climber's right. Move up the slab in the alcove to the first crack on the right. It is a short 5.10a move out of the alcove and on to the main southeast face. Gain the hand and finger crack above the 5.10a exit of the alcove, it goes up parallel to the crack for True Religon, which is the climb that exits the back right corner of the alcove. Traverse left past the corner for the main south face after reaching the top of the crack on Rip Cord for the pitch to the top of Parachute.

Protection

Pro to #2 Camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Roylnn pullin' on the Rip Cord.
[Hide Photo] Roylnn pullin' on the Rip Cord.
Southeast face.
[Hide Photo] Southeast face.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Barrett Cooper
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Number 6. Feb 14, 2003
[Hide Comment] D. Battin- Excelent splitter thin hand crack at the begining. Great lead, eats gear. Nov 18, 2003
Darin Lang
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] The crux, IMO, lasts a little longer than the first moves out of the alcove. Fun route. Jun 10, 2004
TBD
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] I thought this was the best of the alcove routes. Very nice and sustained thin hands. Aug 13, 2007
Tom A.
Co. Springs
[Hide Comment] The original name for this route is "No Chute" 1st ascent was in 1981 by myself and Tom Bowman. Rated old school 5.9. Oct 23, 2007
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Best route in the alcove.... Oct 11, 2015
Ace Boogie
Hollywood, FL
 
[Hide Comment] You can traverse the roof left (or pull through the middle of it with some creative routefinding after) at the top of P1 to link into the headwall for a final pitch to the summit. This is possible for almost any of the alcove side routes. Jul 19, 2018
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Balls out beginning on this one. A fun link-up of note is to start Illegal Smile, and once that gets wide, look for face feet to traverse left into this line to skip the crux of establishing after the roof. Feels sustained 5.8+ and a good way to get comfy leading thin hands. Bring a #3 for before the traverse. Jul 23, 2018