[Hide Comment] Where are all the holds?? Fun route but tough on the legs. good stem work --I love it Feb 17, 2003

[Hide Comment] Hi, Allen Simons again. The real name of this route is Santa's Little Helpers, my first route put up in 1995. I think it is a fun stem prob., too. Sorry my name isn't on the list, the web site won't let me put it up for 24 hours. For more info, e-mail me at rockallen@msn.com. Jun 1, 2003

[Hide Comment] This would be a stellar route anywhere. Enjoy! Mar 21, 2005

[Hide Comment] Feels like a 5.11 in the crux. Great climb though. Mar 7, 2006

[Hide Comment] Thanks for the comment. I find this route fun every time I climb it. 5.11? Mar 12, 2006

[Hide Comment] Hey Allen,
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think since that L-shaped, side pull piece broke off by third bolt, this climb became significantly harder than before. I agree that before it was around 5.10a/b range, but now I do think it's more like a 5.11a/b. The reason I bring this up is Travis and I have been climbing in this area for some time now and recently I noticed that missing piece. I hoped on it and found that section to be the new crux, because of its reachy stem action on a small crimper to a finger pocket.

Cheers
Tymothe Oct 26, 2006

[Hide Comment] Well, I did not know that. I climbed it last spring, and it seemed 10-ish. I'll have to jump back on it and check it out. As I remember, the 3rd bolt was the crux for me. I don't recall a side pull, but perhaps I did a different variation. I'll check it out first good weather. Allen Oct 27, 2006

[Hide Comment] Tymothe, I went up and top-roped this the other day to check out the rating thing. I couldn't remember using a side pull where you describe but did see one the other day. If it was bigger before, I don't remember. I never used it to climb the route. I climb it with lots of stemming and perhaps never used the hold in question. I still felt it to be hard 5.10. There are two ways to climb this route however. Stemming up the scoop and taking the rounded blunt section with edges 2-3 feet right of the bolts. I supposed there is a third way using both. Feb 26, 2007

[Hide Comment] Great climbing that ends all too soon. One of the better routes I've done in the Big T. Mar 27, 2007

[Hide Comment] Aaron, did you stem it or use the edges and locks 2-3 feet right of the bolts? Mar 29, 2007

[Hide Comment] Allen - I don't remember exactly, but I think I started w/ the slanted sidepulls on the right side of the bolt line near the first bolt, and then I stemmed out to the left and then kind of pulled straight up the bolt line via stemming/smearing and small edges. I do not remember any 'cracks' to do a 'lock' in, so I'm not quite sure what you mean by that. I could see how one could do this route in a variety of ways, all of which are fun, and probably near the same level of difficulty. I am guessing it's somewhere between 5.9+ and 5.10b. Whatever it is, it's very nice climbing. It's too bad the rock isn't taller. It would be stellar if it were longer. Mar 30, 2007

[Hide Comment] Great climb- very fun stemming! The climb to the right (top rope) must not be climbed much- loose rock along the beginning seam.
-Dillon May 29, 2007

[Hide Comment] J.P. "5.9 at the most". Never say never but 13 other people rated this climb 10 a or harder. I will say that I have done an easier variation that usese other holds farther left and farther right. In my opinion both of those variations are easier. Allen Nov 8, 2008

[Hide Comment] I always thought this fine route was 5.10+ Definitely harder than 5.9. J.P must be an animal! Nov 10, 2008

[Hide Comment] This is a great 30 footer who ever pioneered this route is a genious. Jun 24, 2009

[Hide Comment] Scott, my buddy Ned Sparks and I put this up in 1995. First route I ever bolted. We drilled it with a hammer and bit hanging from the rope. I thought Ned looked like one of Santa's little elves tapping away at the hole combined with the miniscule foot holds prompted me to named it Santa's Little Helpers. It is a fun one. Jun 30, 2009