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Routes in Scoop Wall

Santa's Little Helpers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shooting Star TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Allen Simmons & Ned Sparks, 1995
Page Views: 94 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ripley Casdorph on Nov 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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17 Opinions

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Description

100 feet beyond the bridge on the right hand side of the road, this route leads up and to the right a bit. It goes up a [slopey] dish, that looks like a skateboard half pipe. The climbing is fairly sustained most of the way up. The crux is going from the third to the fourth bolt. All the moves are well protected. This is worth the stop on your way up US Highway 34.

Protection

Four bolts to a chain anchor.

Photos

allen simons  
 
Scott, my buddy Ned Sparks and I put this up in 1995. First route I ever bolted. We drilled it with a hammer and bit hanging from the rope. I thought Ned looked like one of Santa's little elves tapping away at the hole combined with the miniscule foot holds prompted me to named it Santa's Little Helpers. It is a fun one. Jun 30, 2009
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
This is a great 30 footer who ever pioneered this route is a genious. Jun 24, 2009
kyle kingrey
Loveland
5.10a
kyle kingrey   Loveland
5.10a
I always thought this fine route was 5.10+ Definitely harder than 5.9. J.P must be an animal! Nov 10, 2008
allen simons  
 
J.P. "5.9 at the most". Never say never but 13 other people rated this climb 10 a or harder. I will say that I have done an easier variation that usese other holds farther left and farther right. In my opinion both of those variations are easier. Allen Nov 8, 2008
Dillon Sprague
Loveland, CO
 
Dillon Sprague   Loveland, CO
 
Great climb- very fun stemming! The climb to the right (top rope) must not be climbed much- loose rock along the beginning seam.
-Dillon May 29, 2007
Eran Shileikis
Dysfunctional, CO
  5.10b
Eran Shileikis   Dysfunctional, CO
  5.10b
Allen - I don't remember exactly, but I think I started w/ the slanted sidepulls on the right side of the bolt line near the first bolt, and then I stemmed out to the left and then kind of pulled straight up the bolt line via stemming/smearing and small edges. I do not remember any 'cracks' to do a 'lock' in, so I'm not quite sure what you mean by that. I could see how one could do this route in a variety of ways, all of which are fun, and probably near the same level of difficulty. I am guessing it's somewhere between 5.9+ and 5.10b. Whatever it is, it's very nice climbing. It's too bad the rock isn't taller. It would be stellar if it were longer. Mar 30, 2007
allen simons  
 
Aaron, did you stem it or use the edges and locks 2-3 feet right of the bolts? Mar 29, 2007
Eran Shileikis
Dysfunctional, CO
  5.10b
Eran Shileikis   Dysfunctional, CO
  5.10b
Great climbing that ends all too soon. One of the better routes I've done in the Big T. Mar 27, 2007
allen simons  
 
Tymothe, I went up and top-roped this the other day to check out the rating thing. I couldn't remember using a side pull where you describe but did see one the other day. If it was bigger before, I don't remember. I never used it to climb the route. I climb it with lots of stemming and perhaps never used the hold in question. I still felt it to be hard 5.10. There are two ways to climb this route however. Stemming up the scoop and taking the rounded blunt section with edges 2-3 feet right of the bolts. I supposed there is a third way using both. Feb 26, 2007
allen simons  
 
Well, I did not know that. I climbed it last spring, and it seemed 10-ish. I'll have to jump back on it and check it out. As I remember, the 3rd bolt was the crux for me. I don't recall a side pull, but perhaps I did a different variation. I'll check it out first good weather. Allen Oct 27, 2006
Hey Allen,
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think since that L-shaped, side pull piece broke off by third bolt, this climb became significantly harder than before. I agree that before it was around 5.10a/b range, but now I do think it's more like a 5.11a/b. The reason I bring this up is Travis and I have been climbing in this area for some time now and recently I noticed that missing piece. I hoped on it and found that section to be the new crux, because of its reachy stem action on a small crimper to a finger pocket.

Cheers
Tymothe Oct 26, 2006
allen simons  
 
Thanks for the comment. I find this route fun every time I climb it. 5.11? Mar 12, 2006
David Strathman
  5.11a
David Strathman  
  5.11a
Feels like a 5.11 in the crux. Great climb though. Mar 7, 2006
Richard Beller
  5.10c
Richard Beller  
  5.10c
This would be a stellar route anywhere. Enjoy! Mar 21, 2005
allen simons  
 
Hi, Allen Simons again. The real name of this route is Santa's Little Helpers, my first route put up in 1995. I think it is a fun stem prob., too. Sorry my name isn't on the list, the web site won't let me put it up for 24 hours. For more info, e-mail me at rockallen@msn.com. Jun 1, 2003
Where are all the holds?? Fun route but tough on the legs. good stem work --I love it Feb 17, 2003