PRINT: Rock Climb Slow Train Coming, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Slow Train Coming

5.11a, Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 28 votes
FA: Jimmy Ratzlaff and Steve Hadik
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

An excellent bolted slab climb in a fantastic location and with a name from a Bob Dylan song to boot!

Surprisingly this route does not receive as much flack as Genius Loci for being so close to a classic trad route. Perhaps it makes people feel silly to rail against a Slow Train that's coming. Anyway, the climbing is devious and requires wicked foot work on tiny holds. This is a good route to do if you're coming down from the Upper Ramp with time on your hands. It could also be used as an alternative start to the Naked Edge. (But only after you've done the real first pitch.)

After finding your way to the first pitch of the Edge, climb down a few feet and head right around the corner. It's a little airy over there which adds to the excitement. Then climb up and left passing the 2nd and 3rd bolts and the crux of the climb. Hang in there on small holds and think positive thoughts about your footwork. If your toes are going numb, you're probably doing something right. This route ends at the same bolted anchor as pitch one of the Edge. Eight bolts total, no gear necessary on this pitch.

Protection

10 QDs (plus standard Eldo rack to get up there).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Eldorado Canyon. Slow Train Coming. Isaac Therneau climbing. Nov. '08.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Juth
Ridgway, CO

5.11a

Beautiful face climbing! A little spicy on the easier rock on the second half of the pitch, but safe and enjoyable throughout. Dec 21, 2004

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.11a

Thin is in!
The 'Slow Train' that is coming is the forearm pump if you are not wearing good edging shoes. Luckily it gets easier as you head up. I got rail-roaded today & finished with nothing left. May 9, 2009

George K. Watson
Nederland, CO

I did this years ago with Derek Hersey and Jon Grayson and none of us thought it was harder than 10+ (c/d). A small TCU can be used under a little overlap to make it a bit less 'spicy'. It's a little heretical being this close to P1 of the NE, but the climbing is nice. Jul 5, 2010

Moritz B.

5.10+

I´m not too sure about the bolt quality on this one. Rusty and old, the bolts aren´t confidence inspiring. Jun 1, 2015

Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO

Route update: the 8 old lead bolts were replaced with 1/2" stainless 5-piece bolts. Per the approved ACE application, bolt 3 was moved slightly left and bolt 6 was moved down.

Old 3/8" inch bolt with Leper hanger replaced with 1/2" 5-piece bolt.

Link to application aceeldo.org/fhrc/applicatio…

Thanks, ACE, for supplying the hardware. Consider donating at: Donate to ACE aceeldo.org/. May 23, 2016

Bruce Hildenbrand
Silicon Valley/Boulder

Nice rebolting job, Lisa. Actually, that's not a Leeper hanger but an HME (Hughston Mountain Equipment) hanger. You can identify it versus a Leeper by the large carabiner hole. HME hangers are very strong. May 23, 2016

Japhy Dhungana
Boulder, CO

5.11a

Thanks for the rebolting job - this is an AWESOME route that deserves a lot more attention!

Very well protected throughout (not too spicy at all), and all you need are draws (might want long runners on the 1st and 2nd bolt). The crux is distinctly at the 3rd bolt, but the climbing is fun and engaging throughout with crisp edges on bullet clean rock.

If you've already done that first pitch of the Edge a dozen times, get on this - a fantastic panel of rock that is a completely different style of climbing than the Naked Edge. Also, not much slab climbing on this one, more thin, positive edging... very enjoyable. Sep 29, 2016